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Where the slopes of the Caucasus meet the Caspian Sea, Azerbaijan sits at the crossroads of Europe and Asia. Like its Caucasian neighbors Armenia and Georgia, it’s hard to place Azerbaijan in either continent.
To all intents, Azerbaijan is truly transcontinental. The futuristic skyscrapers of its capital, Baku, wouldn’t feel out of place in Dubai or Riyadh. Wander into its UNESCO-listed old town and you’ll find bazaars which smack of the Silk Road. Stroll down to the seashore, though, passing outlets of every Italian fashion house on your way, and you’ll find yourself amongst Venetian canals.
Our 7 day Azerbaijan itinerary shows you every side of multifaceted Baku. Venturing outside the capital, you’ll see the carpets which once drove the Azeri economy and the oil which drives it today. We’ll discover a cuisine influenced by the cultures of two continents and delve deep into a country ravaged by war as recently as 2023.
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Getting to Azerbaijan
Azerbaijan’s land borders with Georgia, Iran and Russia are currently closed to foreigners with no indication as to when they may reopen. This is a great shame; traveling overland through the Caucasus was, until recently, a firm favorite. Whilst ferry connections between Baku and Aktau, Kazakhstan and Turkmenbashi, Turkmenistan remain in operation, it is not possible to enter Azerbaijan through its seaports. You can, however, depart the country by sea.
Therefore, for the vast majority of visitors, the only way to reach Azerbaijan is by air. Baku Heydar Aliyev International (GYD) is the country’s main international gateway. It’s well served by flights from across Europe, the Middle East and Asia. Getting from the airport to central Baku takes around 45 minutes by bus or 20 by taxi. All the taxis you’ll find at the airport are licenced.
Is it safe to visit Azerbaijan
Azerbaijan is, overall, a very safe country to visit. Crime levels are lower than most countries in the region and far lower than the United Kingdom and United States. Naturally, opportunistic petty crime does occur in Baku and other major cities, so it always pays to keep a close eye on your valuables.
Nagorno-Karabakh
Following the 2023 conflict in Nagorno-Karabakh, its understandable that many travelers have concerns over safety in Azerbaijan. It is important to note that fighting didn’t spread elsewhere in the country, and since the ceasefire signed on 20th September the same year, there have been no further escalations.
The ethnic Armenian Republic of Artsakh has been disbanded and Nagorno-Karabakh is now fully under Azeri control. That said, tensions between Armenia and Azerbaijan still exist and many governments, including the British FCDO advise against travel to the border.
The remainder of Nagorno-Karabakh is generally considered safe, however it is yet to fully reopen for tourism. Therefore, our Azerbaijan itinerary doesn’t cover the region. However, when it does reopen, we have plenty of great reasons to add it to your bucket list. And with flights now in operation between Baku and Fuzuli, that may not be too distant a pipe dream.
The Ultimate Azerbaijan Itinerary
Days 1 & 2: Baku
A visit to the world’s lowest capital should be high on your agenda. This is a city which embraces change at every opportunity, but never forgets its past. Baku doesn’t try too hard to show off its oil driven wealth, but every now and again, it leaves a subtle reminder that it means business. A wonderous mix of Parisian grandeur, Emirati bling and Soviet brutalism, Baku may, at first, appear confused. In reality, it’s anything but.
Where to stay in Baku
Home to 2.5 million residents, Azerbaijan’s sole metropolis covers an impressive area. Its downtown, though, is relatively walkable. To make the most of your time on this Azerbaijan itinerary, we suggest staying close to the Old City or Baku Boulevard, its seafront promenade.
Opting to stay in the walled Old City puts you closest to Baku’s main attractions. Our top pick here is Qala Boutique Hotel, just steps from the Palace of the Shirvanshahs. The décor is dated, but deliberately and only adds to its appeal. For a perfectly located, budget-friendly option, Sands of Time is unbeatable, whilst those craving a little luxury will love the Shirvanshah Hotel.
Staying on Baku Boulevard is ideal if you want to be close to Baku’s best shopping and love nothing more than an evening stroll by the water’s edge. The majority of hotels here are international chains, but there are a few boutique gems. Promenade Hotel is, without doubt, the best located. At the very southern end of the Boulevard, right by Little Venice and the Carpet Museum, Art Gallery Hotel is ideal for a quiet, romantic city break.
Baku’s top restaurants
Like any capital city worth its weight, Baku offers a fantastic mix of traditional Azeri cuisine and international favorites. With four nights here on this Azerbaijan itinerary, you’ll have plenty of opportunities to try the best of both.
To help guide you through Baku’s restaurant scene, we’ve put together a list of our favorite restaurants. Whilst you’re here, don’t miss the chance to try Azerbaijan’s national dish: plov. Authentic plov is served with three separate components. Saffron rice is the staple, and is always served warm, never hot. Meat, chicken or beef, mixed with onion, chestnuts and dried fruits, known as gara, is added on top of the rice at the table along with a garnish of aromatic herbs.
Unmissable Sights in Baku
Around the Old City
The best way to become acquainted with Baku at the start of your Azerbaijan itinerary is to join a guided city tour. You’ll not only get your bearings, but tick off some of Baku’s top sights in the process. The first of these, at the heart of the walled Old City, is the UNESCO-listed Palace of the Shirvanshahs. Once home to the rulers of ancient Shirvan, the kingdom which covered much of Azerbaijan between the 9th and 16th centuries, the palace features ancient burial vaults, the shah’s private mosque and a dervish mausoleum.
Whilst exploring Baku’s Old City, don’t miss the chance to climb the Maiden Tower, visit the Museum of Miniature Books and browse curios at the bazaar.
Embark on a journey through time with a ride on the funicular railway up to the Flame Towers. When the time comes to descend, walk down through the Alley of Martyrs, a moving memorial to those who fell during the first Nagorno-Karabakh War of 1988-1994.
On Baku Boulevard
Heading down to Baku Boulevard, pay a visit to the Azerbaijan Carpet Museum. Housing the largest collection of Azeri carpets in the world, there are over 10,000 items on display.
Next, spend a while strolling through Baku’s most unlikely attraction. Little Venice was built in the 1960s to emulate the canals of the Italian city. In true Venetian style, the best way to see it is from a gondola. A little further along the Boulevard, the National Museum of History is a must on any Azerbaijan itinerary. Its impressive collection has everything from 3rd century gold coins to robes worn by Mongol rulers and medals from the first European Games.
Round off your time in Baku with a different perspective of the capital. There are few cities in the world which don’t look even better from the water; Baku is no exception. An evening cruise on the Caspian Sea, admiring the twinkling lights of the Old City and the illuminated Flame Towers will be a highlight of your Azerbaijan itinerary.
Day 3: A Day Trip to an Exclave: Nakhchivan
Visiting an exclave is always fun. There’s something about these quirky geographical anomalies which never cease to capture the attention of avid travelers. Skipping Nakhchivan on your Azerbaijan itinerary would be a great shame.
Luckily, reaching Nakhchivan from Baku couldn’t be easier. Azerbaijan Airlines operate up to nine daily flights; the journey takes just shy of an hour. Until recently, tickets were only available from agents in Baku , but it’s now possible to purchase them online.
Despite its small size, Nakhchivan- encircled by Armenia, Iran and Türkiye– has more to see than you’ll pack in to any one day visit. The most impressive of the highlights you can’t miss during your short stop on this Azerbaijan itinerary is Garabaghlar Mausoleum. Alinja Castle, dubbed the “Macchu Picchu of Azerbaijan” is a sight to behold, and the Tomb of Noah is a place of pilgrimage. The flood of Noah’s Ark fame is said to have occurred close to nearby Mount Ararat.
If you fancy adding an extra night to your Azerbaijan itinerary, Nakhchivan is no bad place to spend it. Nakhchivan city has a small selection of good quality, and good value hotels. Saat Meydani and Nakhchivan Palace are its best offerings.
Upon returning to Baku Airport, if you plan to rent a car for the remainder of your Azerbaijan itinerary, this is a good time to collect it. Tomorrow’s adventure will see you hitting the open road.
Day 4: Quba: The Home of Carpets
A two-hour drive north of Baku, or three hours by bus (departing hourly), Quba is famous for its carpets. Azerbaijan carpets have been woven here since the Bronze Age. Pay a visit to Quba Tarix Diyarşünaslıq Muzeyi to learn a little about the history of weaving and the city itself.
Another of Quba’s claims to fame is as home to one of Azerbaijan’s largest Jewish populations. The Mountain Jews Museum pays homage to the lives and achievements of Caucasian Jews. Just along the street, a somewhat sombre site is the Quba Genocide Memorial Complex. On this site in 2007, a mass grave of over 400 victims of the 1918 Armenian genocide was discovered.
Before returning for one final night in Baku, take a stroll across the Portal Frame Bridge, built in 1894. Wander through Nizami Park, named after Persian poet Nizami Ganjavi, and pause for a traditional lunch at Mahir Sirniyyat.
Day 5: Baku to Shamakhi
Heading south from Baku, if you’re driving yourself, make a stop at Gobustan to admire the ancient rock carvings. Another unmissable stop en-route is the Mud Volcanoes complex at Gilinj. Visiting one of the country’s 350 mud volcanoes is a highlight of any Azerbaijan itinerary and Gilinj is, in our opinion, the best thanks to its informative visitor centre.
Head south, skirting the city of Shirvan, to reach the National Park for which the region is famed. The park, which covers over 25,000 hectares, is home to hundreds of Goitered Gazelle along with an amazing array of wetland birdlife.
Where to stay in Shamakhi
It’s a bit of a drive, but making the trek north to Shamakhi to spend the fourth night of your Azerbaijan itinerary is well worth it. The ancient city dates back to the 5th century and is home to resplendent Persian architecture. Book a room at the Shirvan Grand Hotel and spend your evening marvelling at the shimmering minarets and Silk Road mausoleums.
Day 6: Shamakhi to Sheki
The penultimate day of our Azerbaijan itinerary takes you further west to historic Sheki. Once an important Silk Road trading post, Sheki’s unique architecture has earned it a place on the UNESCO World Heritage List.
Travel Tip: If you prefer to base yourself in Baku for the entireity of your Azerbaijan itinerary, it is possible to take a day trip to Shamakhi and Sheki.
Along the way, pause to admire Yeddi Gozel Waterfall as it plunges into Nohur Lake. Nearby Gebele is the ideal place to stop for lunch. Asgard restaurant’s kebabs are out of this world. Upon reaching Sheki, head straight for the castle, the Palace of Shaki Khans.
Built in 1797 by the third Khan, the palace is considered one of Azerbaijan’s most important historic monuments. Taking a guided tour is the best way to get an overview of the history.
Where to stay in Sheki
Sheki may be small, but it has a remarkable choice of accommodation. Sheki Palace Hotel is our top pick for a full service hotel; right next to the palace, the restaurant offers a stunning panorama of the city. For a great budget-friendly alternative, look no further than Friend’s House, complete with a hot tub to unwind in after a hard day’s exploring.
Day 7: Sheki to Naftalan
Last, but by no means least, the final stop on our Azerbaijan itinerary is a popular tourist destination, for a rather unusual reason. Heading south to Naftalan, make a stop overlooking Mingachevir Reservoir, the largest in the Caucasus at 70km long.
Azerbaijan first struck oil back in 1847. Ever since, the country’s oil industry has grown year-on-year and now, oil is Azerbaijan’s biggest export. But Naftalan oil is a little different. Too thick for commercial use, Naftalan oil is little use for burning, but it does, so we’re told, have plenty of health benefits.
For almost 100 years, Naftalan spa hotels have been submerging willing guests in baths of warm oil. Their claim: it eases over 70 skin and musculoskeletal conditions. How true this is, I wouldn’t like to say, but there can be no harm in rounding off your Azerbaijan itinerary by finding out for yourself.
Where to stay in Naftalan
The original, and most famous, of Naftalan’s alternative spa hotels, Garabag Resort is right in the center of town. Aside from the unusual treatments, they offer an excellent free breakfast along with more traditional spa and wellness packages. Its fame does come with a hefty price tag, for provincial Azerbaijan at least. Sun City Hotel provides a good alternative. Their spa is second to none in all but name, and their restaurants are the best in town.
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