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One of the most hotly contested corners of our planet, the mountainous region of Karabakh has been at the centre of brutal cycles of violence between Azerbaijan and Armenia since the 1990s.
In 2023, an Azerbaijan offensive led to the exodus of the Armenian population, ended Armenian control of Karabakh and consolidated Azeri sovereignty over the entire Karabakh region.
Recently I joined a special delegation to this magnificent yet troubled region. Karabakh is not yet open tourism, but there are many indications the region will open soon.

From North Korea to Syria, there are many reasons to visit destinations which are full of competing narratives, painful histories and immense beauty.
Visiting Karabakh is no ordinary trip. This is a region which demands sensitivity, historical awareness, and a respect that, as an outsider, you cannot fully comprehend all of the region’s intricate dynamics and narratives. However, I am going to share why I think you should travel to Karabakh – when it opens.

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Before You Go: Visiting Karabakh
At the time of writing, there is no longer any active warfare in Karabakh. However, the region is still heavily mined and geopolitical tensions

For travel purposes, since 2023, the entirety of Karabakh is part of sovereign Azerbaijan territory. You will need a visa to visit Azerbaijan which may be impacted by your previous travel history! Don’t worry, we have you covered here – but make sure you read up on everything you need to know before visiting Azerbaijan!

Travel tip: Presently, Wi-Fi is almost impossible to find across Karabakh. However, I had LTE coverage with my Azeri cell across the region!
Getting to Karabakh
At the time of writing, Karabakh is closed to visitors and special military permits are required to visit. With ongoing peace negotiations with Armenia and landmine clearances, I have a feeling Karabakh will be open to visitors sooner than some may expect.
New airports have been constructed in Fuzuli and Zangilan – making Karabakh a quick 40-minute flight from Baku.

The continued resettlement of Azeris across Karabakh will presumably lead to an increased demand in public transport options. I think we can expect to see new public transport links from Baku and Ganja to major cities in Karabakh like Susa, Aghdam and Xankendi (formerly Stepankert).

Since the 2023 Karabakh War, there is no longer any access into Karabakh from the Armenian border.
Why you should travel to Karabakh
1. Fuzuli Airport
You’re probably thinking – why is an airport on the list of top things to see?
The Fuzuli Airport was constructed in just 8 months after Fuzuli was captured by Azerbaijan in the 2020 Karabakh War.

While the airport doesn’t yet have commercial flights, there is something particularly cool about visiting an empty, uber-modern and sparkling clean airport. More importantly, Fuzuli Airport gives visitors a clear insight into Azerbaijan’s future plans for the region.

2. Susa
With centuries of history, Susa is famous for being the home of poets and prominent Azeri cultural figures. You will often here Susa referred to as the cultural capital of Karabakh.

Susa’s ancient fortress and Old Town walls are still standing. If you are able to, try to climb on the walls which offer a beautiful view over the surrounding valley, including the nearby city of Xakendi (formerly known as Stepankert).

Don’t miss the large bronze statues of Azeri literary and cultural figures. In many ways, these statues encapsulate the complex history of Karabakh. Removed by the Armenian authorities after the First Karabakh War in the 90s, Azerbaijan bought the statues from a scrap metal yard in Georgia. Following Azerbaijan’s reclamation of sovereignty, the statues – bullets and all – were restored in the centre of Susa.

3. Museum of Bread Mosaic
Driving through Karabakh you will pass miles and miles of destroyed villages and homes – many overgrown and covered in bushes or landmines.

In the town of Aghdam, you can talk a short walk to the ruined building of the former Museum of Bread. After passing through scrub, you literally stumble upon the remarkable Soviet-era mosaic.

Despite decades of war, much of the original mosaic remains. With displays of Azeri cultural instruments, a Nowruz (Persian New Year) platter and a woman wearing a headscarf, the Museum of Bread mosaic is often used to assist Azeri claims to the region.
4. Aghdam Martyr’s Cemetery
Just outside of Aghdam is a memorial site and cemetery which houses many graves from the first Karabakh War.

In my opinion, the best way to gain insight into a society is to observe its rituals.
In particular, I try to think about how a community acknowledges life cycle events like births, deaths and marriages. A cemetery often reflects the cultural, religious or social values of the community.
By visiting this small cemetery in Aghdam, you can get a little insight into the role of martyrdom in Azeri society. A short crash course into how decades of conflict merge with the traditional Azeri customs and traditions .

Most graves contain black and white portraits of those buried here, often draped in Azeri flags. Take a moment to look through the photos and birth dates of those buried here. No matter your political opinions, conflict has a human face.

5. Omer Asirimi Pass
Karabakh has no shortage of magnificent viewpoints. The mountain pass at Omer Asirimi sits at 3260 meters (1069 feet) and offers the most spectacular views over the Karabakh (‘Black Mountains’) – often shrouded in layers of snow.

At the time of writing, the road up to the Omer Asirimi Pass is not paved and a 4×4 is definitely needed!
Travel tip: At 3260 meters it can get very cold! Don’t forget to have a warm coat or sweater handy.

6. Lachin
If you have read anything about the Karabakh conflict, you will probably have heard about Lachin. This small area previously offered a corridor between Armenia and the Armenian-supported separatist government in Karabakh.

Unlike other parts of the region, the town of Lachin has filled the windows of empty and destroyed buildings with portraits of the children of Azeris who have returned to Lachin since the 2020 Karabakh War.

These portraits were taken by renown French-Iranian war photographer Reza Deghati, who photographed and reported from the First Karabakh War in the 90s. A powerful display which highlights the complexity of this conflict and the layers of pain often hidden in this landscape.

7. Khodaafarin Bridge
By some estimates the Khodaafarin bridge has connected Karabakh to Iran since 550 B.C.E.

The bridge is a spectacular piece of architecture, gently complementing the red hues of Iranian Azerbaijan behind it. More significantly, the bridge highlights Karabakh’s role at the crossroads of empires. A literal bridge between the Caucuses and Persian civilization.

Today, only a small gate stops you from running across the bridge to the Islamic Republic – well, that and the Iranian military base across the river.

Don’t walk too far from the bridge, as the ruined village behind the bridge remains mined and extremely dangerous!

8. New mosques and construction
Across the rebuilt towns and cities of Karabakh you will find countless mosques under construction – often with the help of Turkish construction companies. Azeri mosques tend to have a unique style which blend Turkish architectural styles with Iranian (or Shia) design influencers.

Beyond mosques, you will see huge amounts of money being poured into Karabakh – with endless new construction projects, housing blocs and roadworks.

We like to keep Travel Insighter up to date. To be the first to find out when Karabakh opens to tourists, make sure you are subscribed to The Insight:
And for now, don’t miss out on visiting the best of Azerbaijan: from Baku to Nakhchivan!
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George
Thursday 1st of August 2024
Hi Daniel,
Thank you for this helpful guide. Just wondering if Karabakh is now open for tourism, and is it possible to enter from Armenia?