The Best Traditional Food in Moldova You Shouldn’t Miss

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Moldova first came to my attention thanks to a boardgame: Where is Moldova? I admit, I didn’t know the answer, so rather than look on a map, I went to find out. Passing up the chance to tick off Europe’s least visited country is, surely, too good an opportunity to miss.

And whilst Moldova is undeniably in Europe geographically, in every other sense, it feels a million miles removed. Wedged between Romania and Ukraine, Europe’s second poorest country was a Soviet republic until the break up of the USSR. But even the newly independent Moldova’s politics was shaped by its communist past. It was only in 2020 that a newly elected government adopted a pro-western stance. Despite this, still today, breakaway Transnistria cites allegiance to Moscow.

About as diverse and confusing as its history, is its food scene. Traditional food in Moldova is the culmination of influences from the country’s time under Russian and Romanian rule and Turkish invasion. Coupled with influences from neigboring Poland and Ukraine, Moldavian cuisine is fusion by design.

Visiting Moldova

Where to visit

Moldova’s capital and largest city, Chișinău, is where most travelers will find themselves. It’s not the prettiest of cities; despite boasting seven centuries of history, Chișinău was as good as razed to the ground by an earthquake in 1940. The result is a peculiar mix of grand Stalinist buildings and brutalist Soviet eyesores.

What Chișinău lacks in appearance, though, it makes up for in character. Boasting a buzzing nightlife scene, food and wine are Chisinau’s biggest selling points. A plethora of captivating museums only add to its appeal.

If your quest for traditional food in Moldova leads you outside the capital, and it really should, you’re in for a treat. Moldova is a country of unspoiled beauty and architectural wonders which put Chișinău’s urban planners to shame. Gorgeous Old Orhei, Cricova Winery, Manastirea Curchi and Socora should be high on your list.

Getting there

Reaching Moldova used to be a challenge in itself. When I first visited, the only option was an occasional Air Moldova flight- a rather strange affair which entailed being served red wine like it was going out of fashion. Air Moldova are no more, but luckily, in recent years, low-cost airlines have made Chișinău Airport (KIV) a hub.

There are now frequent, affordable flights from destinations across Europe, including London, plus Baku, Istanbul and Tel Aviv. You can also reach Moldova by land from Romania. Trains and buses operate from Iasi to Chisinau, both taking around four hours. In peacetime, a rail connection exists between Odessa, Ukraine and Chisinau. This was suspended following the Russian invasion, however, talks are ongoing with a view to resuming the service in the near future.

Transnistria: A Special Note

Transnistria is a breakaway region which never aligned itself with the newly independent Moldova following the break up of the USSR. Whilst technically part of Moldova, it has its own government (albeit one only recognized by two other breakaway states), currency and immigration control.

It is possible to visit Transnistria. However, you should bear in mind that most governments, including the British FCDO, advise against doing so. Most travel insurance providers won’t cover you if you travel against the advice of your government and consular assistance may be limited or unavailable should you require it.

If you do decide to cross the border to a country which doesn’t exist, taking an organised tour from Chisinau is easier and, likely, less risky than traveling independently.

Unmissable Traditional Food in Moldova

1. Placinte

Without doubt the most famous traditional food in Moldova, placinte take our top spot. These unusually thin pies have long been a favorite in Moldova, along with neighboring Romania where they’re known as placinta. They originated in Ancient Greece and the recipe was passed, albeit unintendedly, to the Romans who brought it to Eastern Europe.

Placinte can be either sweet or savory. Cabbage, potato and cheese are the most traditional savory variations, whilst the sweet favorite is always apple. As with much of the most traditional food in Moldova, placinte’s fillings have changed over time and modern classics include chocolate and ricotta & raisin.

2. Zeama

The lightest and healthiest example of traditional food in Moldova, zeema is no ordinary chicken soup. The Moldavian take on an international favorite, zeema is the ideal quick lunch when you’re busy exploring Chisinau.

Unlike the thick, creamy soups we’re used to in Western Europe and North America, Moldova’s version bears more resemblance to the watery-broth based soups you’ll find in the Far East. Its base is a broth made from a whole small chicken, water and egg noodles. Plenty of vegetables are added too. Onions, carrots, peppers, leeks, tomatoes and potatoes feature in most recipes.

To give zeema an even more unique flavor, having been seasoned, a drop of lemon or sauerkraut juice is added. Traditionally zeema is served with a slice of cornbread.

3. Bors

Love it or hate it, when you visit Eastern Europe, there’s no escaping this brightly coloured sour soup. Borscht originated in Ukraine before spreading far and wide, so it’s no surprise that the local take is a traditional food in Moldova. Despite the slightly different name, bors follows the original Ukrainian borscht recipe.

Bors is made from a meat stock base– most commonly beef or pork. Beetroot is almost always added along with a range of root vegetables, onions and tomatoes. The name bors (and borscht) is a generic name for sour soups so, whilst we commonly associate beetroot with the dish, not all recipes include it. The word borscht actually has its origins in Yiddish.

Of course, if you’re looking to sample as much traditional food in Moldova as possible, you’ll want to stick to the most popular version.

4. Chiroste

Like bors, the next contender on our rundown of the best traditional food in Moldova is a regional take on a worldwide favorite. Chiroste are Moldavian dumplings. Depending on where you are in the world, a dumpling can be anything from a stodgy bread-like accompaniment to casseroles as are popular in the United Kingdom to light dough filled with broth such as Georgian khinkali.

Moldova’s offering to the dumpling scene are not dissimilar to Polish pierogi and Russian pelmeni. Small circles of unleavened dough are filled with cheese before being boiled in salted water. Just like pelmeni, chiroste are served with a generous dollop of sour cream for dipping.

Although cheese-filled dumplings are the most common version of this traditional food in Moldova, modern recipes include various fillings. A sweet alternative, filled with fruit jam, is a popular Moldavian snack.

5. Chiftele cu Piure

These divine meatballs are a traditional food in Moldova you simply have to try. Hearty, warming and filling, chiftele cu piure is the dish you need on a chilly winter’s day. Chiftele, the meatballs themselves, can be made from any number of meats. Beef and pork are popular, but, unusually, chicken is the most traditional.

The piure element of the dish is mashed potato which soaks up the sauce beautifully. Although chiftele cu piure is the most popular meatball dish in Moldova, chiftele can also be enjoyed on their own. When served without sauce, they’re very similar to the kofte found in Türkiye.

6. Cozonac

If you have a sweet tooth, you’ll need no other reason to visit Moldova. Much of the best traditional food in Moldova is indulgently sugar rich. Cozonac, whilst not unique to the country, is an all time favorite. With the appearance of marble cake, this sweet yeast dough-based delight is a cross between bread and a cake.

Although no one is entirely certain on the dish’s origins, it’s thought they can be traced back to the Roman occupation of Bulgaria. The Romans introduced panettone to Eastern Europe and whilst they may have left almost two millennia ago, the love for sweet fruit-filled bread went nowhere.

Moldavian cozonac follows the Romanian recipe. On top of the raisins included in the Bulgarian original, this adds cocoa and rum giving it an even richer flavor. Walnuts can also be added and, more recently, vegan and gluten free versions have become commonplace making this traditional food in Moldova even more accessible.

7. Cornulete

These divine crescent-shaped pastries may look like croissants, but make no mistake, there is nothing French about cornulete. This traditional food in Moldova and Romania is served as a dessert and is especially popular around Christmas. That said, you’ll find them in bakeries and coffee shops all over Chisinau no matter the time of year.

There are endless possibilities of fillings for cornulete. Jam, chocolate, walnuts and raisins are always popular, but when seeking out the most traditional food in Moldova, you have to try the Turkish Delight version.

Over the years, Moldavian cuisine has been heavily influenced by Turkish flavors. When Turkish Delight was invented in Constantinople (modern-day Istanbul) in 1777, Moldova was part of the Ottoman Empire.

8. Cusma lui Guguta

Last but by no means least, and possibly the most eye-catching of all the traditional food in Moldova, cusma lui gugata is the most indulgent Moldavian dessert you’ll find. At first glance, it looks a little like tiramisu, but the taste couldn’t be more different.

This lavish cherry filled-crepe mountain is held together with a cream filling and topped off with a dusting of cocoa powder or chocolate shavings. The chocolate is the perfect antidote to sour cherries.

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