We may receive a commission if you make purchases through affiliate links (at no extra cost to you). Read why our approach to travel is different.
Nestled in the heart of the Occitanie, a squiggly sixteen miles north of Nimes, you’ll find the medieval commune of Uzès. It’s one of those fairy-tale European towns where time has stood utterly still, a tired cliché, but any other description feels inaccurate.
The town has been aggressively preserved in that way the French, above all others, have mastered. There are almost no concessions to modern design and architecture. Car access is strictly limited. It is a truly charming destination. It’s the kind of place where you can literally spend a week just pottering – and that’s exactly what I did. Alongside a lot of eating – and that’s what I’m really here to talk about: the food.
The Market
Not a restaurant, of course, but if you’re into discovering local cuisine, then you simply must be in Uzès for a Wednesday or Saturday morning. These are the market days, and if you’re a seasoned Francophile, you’ll require no further information.
For the uninitiated, the Uzès market, like so many in France, is a showcase of hyper-local foods and delicacies from cheese and wine to meats and produce. It’s also a great way to experience the culture and mingle with the locals.
The Wednesday market is slightly smaller and a more intimate, local affair. The Saturday market has more vendors and really brings the crowds.
While there is no shortage of fabulous eateries in Uzès (we’ll get to them), if you are in self-catering accommodation I’d strongly recommend shopping for your evening meal at the market and having a night in with a bottle (or two) of local wine. I dare you to visit the market and resist the urge to stock up.
If you can’t prepare your own meal – don’t despair! There are plenty of non-perishable goodies for the suitcase including local wines, oils, exotic vinegars and jarred tapenades and pestos. I was there in spring and the market was full to bursting with white asparagus (a true local delicacy) and early season artichokes. Need I say more?
Breakfast/Brunch/Lunch
If going native, your first order of business in the morning is to visit the local boulangerie and get your fresh bread for the day. And since you’re on vacation, grab a few croissants and maybe a pain au chocolat to get off on the right foot.
Boulangerie Provençal is in the heart of the old town, just a stone’s throw from the market. It’s popular with tourists, but you’ll find plenty of locals here, too. My four year old (with help from her more discerning father) thoroughly sampled their pastry selection over the week and had no complaints.
If it’s a nice day, head to the Place aux Herbes, the central square where the market is held and the beating heart of Uzès. The square is surrounded by cafes and restaurants on all sides. It’s hard to go wrong; just grab an available table to people watch while you sip your cappuccino (or aperitif). In comically French fashion, I generally found – the worse the service, the better the food.
La Fontaine is my pick for the best food. But don’t stop here if you’re in a hurry, the service is glacial – you may as well make a day of it and stay on for lunch. Le Caracoles next door has better service and is very accommodating to families but the food is a step down.
For a long boozy lunch, try to snag an outside table at Terroirs (another cornerstone of the central square periphery). They have a lengthy list of adult beverages and lots of moorish tapas and small plates (and big ones, too) to keep you going. It also doubles as a small grocer selling local wines and other goodies.
Dinner
If you’re into fine dining and ready to splash the cash, then La Table d’Uzès is the obvious choice for an ultra-refined local meal. If the weather is good, request a table on the terrace to enjoy the views of the cathedral. The restaurant has a Michelin star and is in high demand, so you’ll need to book in advance.
For a delicious meal that is less fussy and lighter on the wallet, I strongly recommend Comptoir du Sept. Modern and relaxed, the food is sophisticated but unpretentious and utilizes fresh, local ingredients. The staff are attentive without hovering and were extremely accommodating to the attendance of three (well behaved) children.
The restaurant is simultaneously spacious and cozy – think wine cave vibes without the claustrophobia (although the space was actually once a stables). The tables are nicely distanced so you can enjoy a private conversation.
TEN is another local gem offering seasonal French food with an international twist and casual bistro vibes. It’s not exactly cheap, but it is exceptional value and great for lunch or dinner. Celebrity British chef Rick Stein featured the restaurant on his Secret France series on the BBC in 2019 and it has since enjoyed (a well deserved) popularity boom.
Dessert
I wouldn’t fault you for being tempted by the dessert options at any of the above restaurants, but do make sure to pop into La Glacerie Uzès during your stay. They have all the ice cream favorites done right – no imitation fruit here: the strawberry is strawberry.
But do yourself a favor and try the lavender and thyme ice creams (in fact, they go really well together if you’re up for a double scoop). They are subtle, aromatic and utterly divine.
If savory afters are more your speed, Fromagerie Albert has a good selection of local and artisan cheeses. If you’re concerned about cheese dreams (believe me, they are real) the fromagerie is also a small grocer, so it’s a great place to stock up for a sophisticated picnic – which you’ll need when you visit Pont du Gard (keep reading).
While you’re here…
While it’s perfectly possible to never leave Uzès during your stay, do make the effort to get out to Pont du Gard – an incredibly well preserved Roman aqueduct that is an astonishing 2,000 years old. It’s easy to book a local taxi there and back (there’s really no need to have a rental car in Uzès).
Plan to spend most of the day here: there’s a shiny new visitor center, facilities and food options if you haven’t packed a picnic. You can walk across the viaduct or head down to the scrappy but pleasant beach for impressive views. If the weather is fine – it’s a great place to let the kids splash around.
If you’re looking for more things to do in Uzès, make sure you drop into the tranquil Jardin Médiéval Uzès which dates to the 12th Century.
Wander around the charming, well-tended gardens or settle down in a quiet nook with a good book. If you’ve got the kids, there’s a few fun hidey holes and plenty for them to explore. If you’re looking to work off a few croissants, hike to the top of the bell tower for lovely views across the town.
And finally, make sure you have room for a few special souvenirs. Uzès has a well-heeled yet bohemian vibe so there’s no shortage of cute (and pricey) boutiques and shops. Notably there are several shops selling lovely local pottery and ceramics, something for which the area is famous.
Share This Article
Traveling soon? Subscribe to The Insight below and get exclusive access to our personalized travel advice community via WhatsApp so you can ask all your burning travel questions.
Looking for the best comprehensive travel insurance? SafetyWing has you covered.
And for your eSIM in every country, there is only one option we recommend: Airalo.
Read more of our best insights from around the world
- These are the Best Small Towns in Oregon for 2025
- 10 Unique Things to Do in Magical Dalat, Vietnam
- 7 Best Beaches in Mauritius To Find Your Own Piece of Paradise
- Phoenix Weekend Trips: 3 Budget-Friendly Getaway Ideas
- The Ultimate Insider 3-Day Hanoi Itinerary
- 3 Day Goa Itinerary: Ultimate Guide for 2025
