Taking the Laos-China Railway: Everything You Need to Know

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Before the Laos-China railway came along, Laotian rail travel was fairly limited.

There were two railways in Laos. One stretched roughly four kilometres from Thanaleng to the Thai Border. The other was the defunct seven kilometre Don Det-Don Khon railway, opened by the French colonial authorities in the 19th century, and closed in the 1940s.

It’s pretty different nowadays. The Laos-China Railway essentially extends China’s growing highspeed rail network down into the Southeast Asian nation. It connects the capital at Vientiane with Vang Vieng and Luang Prabang, and with Kunming north of the border in China.

Getting from Laos to China used to involve arduous 24+ hour bus journeys and a whole lot of discomfort. These days, it’s as easy as hopping on a comfortable, air-conditioned train. This is your one-stop guide for all of the information you need ahead of your journey.

The Laos-China Railway – A Very Quick Overview

The Laos-China Railway opened on December 3, 2021, after five years of construction work in the rugged northern areas of the Laotian countryside.

Part of the Belt and Road Initiative – China’s sprawling foreign infrastructure and investment project – the railway is not without its controversies. Despite some criticism of the project, it is expected that the railway will significantly boost tourist revenue in the country, after it was ravaged by the Covid-19 pandemic.

Today, the railway represents an affordable and swift way for locals and tourists alike to travel through the north of the country. It also bridges the gap between Thailand’s extensive rail network, and the growing high speed rail system in China.

Buying tickets

From China

Tickets can be purchased in person from Kunming’s Central Train Station, or the Kunming South Railway Station. Bear in mind that the Laos train runs from the South Station.

In fact, you can buy tickets at any Chinese train station. It doesn’t matter whether the station is on the Laos-China Railway – like at Xishuangbanna – or is simply another station in the network.

Alternatively, you can head to the 12306 app and book your tickets there. Trip.com also sells tickets, but 12306 offers more up-to-date availability, and your purchase will be confirmed immediately.

From Laos

If you’re travelling to China from Laos, typically you’ll be getting onboard at Vientiane, Vang Vieng, or Luang Prabang.

• In Vientiane, you can buy tickets from Khamsavath Station, or from the ticket office at the Vientiane Center Mall.
• In Vang Vieng, it is only possible to buy tickets in person from the train station itself. This isn’t usually a problem, as Vang Vieng is small, and reaching the train station from the town is easy.
• In Luang Prabang, you can buy tickets from the train station, or from the ticket office on Photisalath Road, around a kilometre west of the night market.

Be sure to make a note of the ticket office opening times. The office at Vang Vieng, for example, is only open for a few hours each morning and afternoon. A member of staff at your hotel or hostel should be able to inform you of the opening times.

When I last booked train tickets in Laos in early 2024, only the ticket offices in the stations were able to accept cash. The city center ticket offices accepted card only.

This isn’t an absolute dealbreaker. At Luang Prabang, for some reason I found myself with no card on my person. I was instructed to give my cash to a money-exchange booth down the street in return for a digital code that could be scanned at the ticket office.

The whole process took about 40 minutes longer than I anticipated. Not the end of the world, but it’s a delay that is easily avoided by having your card on you.

Getting visas

It is highly advisable to get your visa in advance, whichever direction you’re traveling.

Chinese visa

China’s visa situation is becoming increasingly relaxed, but it’s also becoming more confusing as a result.

Lots of countries now get visa-free access to China for a defined period. Recent news updates suggest that visa-free access has been extended to land borders too, but personally I wouldn’t risk this.

It’s going to be seriously inconvenient if you find yourself barred from entry at the border. I would make sure you already have your visa before you travel. Chinese visas can take a while to process, so start the application well in advance.

Laotian visa

Laos has a visa-on-arrival program at many of its international borders. You can arrive, process your visa, and be on your way. This is not the case at the rail border with China.

Fortunately, it’s easy to get this visa in Kunming. The Laos Consulate on Cai Yun Road can process your visa in less than an hour, so you won’t have any stress during the border crossing itself.

Taking the train

Security at train stations right across China has been high ever since the Kunming Station attack of 2014. Boarding a train in China is similar to catching a plane in Europe – you’ll need to go through security checks and show your passport.

During busy times, you’ll have to queue. With this in mind, it’s a good idea to arrive two hours before your train is due to depart.

The same systems are in place in Laos – this is essentially an extension of the Chinese high-speed rail network. While it doesn’t generally take as long to enter a Laos station as a Chinese station, it’s still worth arriving early.

Item prohibitions are more strict in Laos than in China. Electronic cigarettes and deodorant cans are likely to be confiscated at the security check in. Don’t assume that you will be able to carry items on Laotian trains simply because the Chinese security staff waved you through – you’ll undergo another security check at the border.

Before reaching the border, the train will come to a stop. You’ll exit the train and get your passport exit stamps, then you’ll re-board. The train will continue for around five minutes, then you’ll get off again and get your entrance stamps for the new country.

Don’t do what I did the first time, and decide to eat a bowl of pào mìan noodles once re-boarding the train after getting your exit stamp. In a few minutes, you’ll be ushered back off the train with all your bags, and your lunch, and made to hurriedly wolf it down on the platform while the border staff grow increasingly inpatient.

Essential Tip: When the Laos-China Railway is not as it seems

You can think of the Laos-China Railway as a cross-border special. You get on the train in one country, arrive at the border, get guided through the exit-entry process, and head on your way in another country.

Just keep in mind this one thing: it’ll only go like this if you buy the cross-border ticket.

If you end up with two tickets – one for Laos and one for China – your experience is going to be very different. It’s still a fine way to travel, but it won’t be quite so convenient.

Basically, you’ll be getting off the train at either Mohan in China, or Boten in Laos (Boten is known as Moding in Mandarin Chinese). From here, you’ll have to source a taxi to take you to the border. Taxis are easy to find in both Laos and China, but you’re a captive audience here by the border, and you’re probably going to end up paying a little more for your ride.

Next, you’ll head through the exit hall and get your passport stamped, then walk or pay for a golf cart to take you the 500 metres from one border to the other.

In my experience, the Laos border building is significantly smaller than the one on the Chinese side, and can get seriously busy. You may need to politely but firmly hold your own position in the queue while the room fills up.

Once the borders are crossed and the stamps are received, you’ll need to find another taxi to take you back to the railway line. Fingers-crossed you haven’t missed your train.

The Laos-China Railway: Key Points to Keep in Mind

The Laos-China railway is a great way to travel between the two countries, or just to travel around northern Laos. Here are a few key points to keep in mind, to make sure you have the best experience possible.

• If you get a single ticket between your destinations, you’ll be guided through the border by railway staff.
• If you’ve got separate tickets for each side of the border, you’ll have to make your way through by yourself – including sourcing taxis to and from the crossing.
• Lots of items are prohibited on trains, particularly on the Laos side. Electronic cigarettes and pressurized aerosol cans may be confiscated.
• It’s advisable to get your visa in advance before your journey.
• The rail network will be very busy in the run up to Lao and Chinese holidays, and buying tickets can be difficult at these times.
• Not all Lao ticket offices can accept cash – make sure you have an alternative means of payment.
• You’ll have to go through security checks before you board the train, so arrive early.
• You’ll have an assigned carriage and seat. Railway staff on the platform can direct you to where you need to stand, so you can easily find the right carriage.

Traveling on the Laos-China railway is a remarkably easy way to get around, and gives you the chance to experience the countryside of northern Laos, rather than simply leapfrogging over it in a plane.

All that’s left is to enjoy the journey, both sides of the border.

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