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Two millennia ago, this area of Eastern Yunnan wasn’t so much a destination, as a waypoint.
With the civilizations of Tibet and Bengal to the west, Southeast Asia to the south, and Han China to the north, the shores of Dianchi Lake became a crossroads of travel and trade. The earliest settlements here flourished with the wealth of ancient commerce.
Today, a little of that sense remains. Kunming is often considered a gateway to Yunnan – the chance to rest and recuperate, before a journey into the west of the province, to Dali, Lijiang, and Shangri-La.
But this is a pity. Kunming – the provincial capital of Yunnan and one of southwestern China’s most important centers – has a huge amount to offer in its own right. In my opinion, those who are just passing through on the road to elsewhere are simply missing out.
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Before You Go: Preparing for your visit
Traveling in China is remarkably convenient, and far easier than many would assume. Having said that, to get the best from your trip to Kunming, a bit of preparation goes a long way.
Prepare basic phrases
Kunming is not Shanghai. Plenty of people speak English in Kunming, but the overwhelming majority do not.
Many local languages are spoken in Yunnan, but almost everyone can speak Mandarin, particularly in Kunming. Learning Mandarin is difficult, and takes years of hard work. Instead of going this route, it’s wise to prepare some basic phrases before you travel.
Use a translation app you can rely on – Google Translate won’t work in China, but Apple’s Translate app will.
Bring a physical phrasebook just in case that fails. And print out the hanzi characters of the places you are staying and visiting, so that you can easily show someone if you need help.
Make advance bookings
It’s advisable to make some bookings in advance. For example:
- Diving at Fuxian Lake will need to be booked in advance – you can find providers on the Padi website.
- Visiting the Yunnan Provincial Museum is free, but you will need to book – this can be done on WeChat, but is difficult if you don’t read Chinese. A member of staff at your Kunming hotel may be able to help you.
- It’s best to book your tour to Shilin in advance – there are many reputable options with English-language websites.
Getting acclimatized
Downtown Kunming is nearly 1,900m above sea level. The surrounding highlands are several hundred meters higher. This is not a serious altitude, but you will notice a significant difference if you arrive here from sea level.
If you’re in good physical health, you might be able to take it in your stride. But if you have a history of heart and respiratory issues, it is advisable to take it slow until you get used to the elevation.
When is the best time to visit Kunming?
Kunming is known as Chuncheng, or The Spring City – supposedly because it feels like spring all year around.
That said, it’s best to visit Kunming between March and May, or between mid-October and early December. This way, you’ll miss the frequent rain of monsoon season, and avoid the coldest of the winter temperatures.
You’ll also avoid the National Day and Mid-Autumn festivals (early October), when the city becomes crowded with tourists, and Chinese New Year (January or February), when everything shuts down.
Ultimate rapid-fire three day Kunming itinerary
Day 1: Central and Western Kunming
Morning: Cuihu and Yuantong Temple
A coffee at Salvador’s in Wenhua Alley is a great way to start your day in Kunming. From here, a short walk eastwards on Wenlin Street deposits you on Cuihu North Road, the northern section of the road that rings Cuihu, or Green Lake.
The traditional center of Kunming, the delightful lake is dwarfed by its cousin, Dianchi, to the south, but provides a calming antidote to the bustle of the city around you.
It’s free to enter the park, and wander across the archipelago of islands and bridges that criss-cross the lake. Or you can join the morning joggers who run laps of Cuihu before work.
Further east, on Yuantong Street, is the Yuantong Temple. It’ll cost you six yuan – around US$0.85 – to enter the complex, and it’s well worth it. There has been a temple on this site since the 9th Century, and the modern complex is populated by resident turtles who call this place home.
Afternoon: Bamboo Temple and Jiaoye Park
The streets around Cuihu’s East Gate are full of lunch options. After grabbing a bite to eat, take the 133 bus to Huang Tu Po, then change to the C61 or C63 bus as far as Yu’an Shan. From there, the small Heiqiong Highway rises westwards towards the sprawling cemetery high on the mountain.
Around 700m up the road, you’ll notice temple buildings on your left, and a walkway leading up into the woods. Follow this, passing the eastern entrance to Jiaoye Park, and leave the road behind.
Walking the trail to Bamboo Temple, or Qiongzhu Si, is a popular way for Kunming’s citizens to get a bit of fresh air away from the city. It’s also popular with slingshotters, who hang targets in the trees and impress each other with their marksmanship – don’t be alarmed, but make sure to let them know you’re there as you approach. Whistling a tune as you walk might be a good idea.
The temple itself is on the road above you. While Yuantong Temple certainly has its charms, Bamboo Temple is an altogether different proposition. Smaller and more intimate, the temple is packed with statues depicting the deities and beings associated with Chinese spirituality for millenia.
Heading west on the same road brings you to Jiaoye Park’s west gate. Inside the park, take a leisurely stroll back down to the Heiqiong Highway, stopping to check out the Flying Tigers Memorial along the way, a site commemorating the American volunteers and their Chinese allies who flew missions over Yunnan and Myanmar during the Second World War.
Or you can simply take the bus back to town from the stop outside Bamboo Temple itself.
Day 2: Dianchi and Southern Kunming
Morning: Guandu Ancient Town and the Yunnan Provincial Museum
Kunming residents like to begin each day with a bowl of mixian, or rice noodle soup. Guoqiao mixian, or cross-bridge rice noodles, is a traditional Yunnanese method of preparing mixian. Though it’s not actually from Kunming (it’s from Mengzi to the south), it’s still a great way to get a taste of Yunnan’s favorite breakfast food.
After breakfast, take the metro south on Line 1 as far as Xingyao Road. Then, take the 261 bus to Xinyu Jia He, or just hop in a taxi to Guandu Gu Zhen; Guandu Ancient Town. This is an interesting slice of Kunming’s history – a preserved (or at least semi-preserved) version of what Yunnan’s provincial capital used to be like.
There are plenty of places to have lunch around here. If you’re just looking for a snack, the famous Guandu baba – a sort of bread pocket with a variety of fillings – might do the trick.
There’s plenty to take in as you wander the Old Town. The tiered pagodas are the town’s centerpiece, reminiscent of the more famous Chongsheng Pagodas in Dali. A little harder to spot are the statues of Song Dynasty Chancellor Qin Hui and his wife, Lady Wang, who kneel in perpetual penitence for apparently traitorous acts perpetrated in life.
From the southeastern gate, walk southwest along the Baoxiang River to Guangfu Road, and then south to the Yunnan Provincial Museum. This impressive modern building houses artifacts from Yunnan’s past, including fascinating relics from the Dali and Nanzhao Kingdoms which existed long before this region was conquered by the Mongol Empire in the 13th Century.
Afternoon: Dianchi and Longmen
The sprawling Dianchi lake to the south of the city is not just associated with Kunming – it’s a core part of Kunming’s identity.
From Guandu Ancient town, it’s best to take a taxi to Hongta Xi Lu Kou, or use WeChat to hail a ride. Climb a few steps up to the promenade on the lakeside, and you’ll get a view of the enormous face of Xishan, the West Mountain, to the southwest.
During the winter, the air will be filled with black-headed gulls migrating here from further north. It’s not just the gulls that migrate here; tourists from all over China visit to feed the birds that flock to the lake.
Head south on the promenade and you’ll reach Haigeng Park. Beyond this, the true scale of Dianchi really makes itself known. Yunnan’s largest lake, Dianchi, stretches 40km from Kunming in the north to Jinning in the south.
You’ll get an even better view when you take the cable-car from Haigeng across to Xishan itself. From the Longmen Gate – a complex of caves and grottoes high on the Xishan cliff face – you’ll have the chance to take in the full majesty of Dianchi.
Returning to the west shore of the lake before dark gives you the chance to witness the sun set over the western hills – a lovely way to finish up a day in Kunming.
Day 3: Heading Out of Town
Option 1: Fuxian Lake
One of the most refreshing aspects of traveling in China is the affordability of drivers and taxis. Using WeChat or the DiDi app to book a driver south from Kunming to the Fuxianhu Park in Chengjiang shouldn’t cost you more than 150-200 yuan – between US$20 and US$30. Here, you’ll find yourself on the shore of Fuxian Lake.
A little smaller than Dianchi, Fuxian has become a well-loved resort for visitors to the area. Candidly, Dianchi is polluted, and swimming is prohibited – Fuxian is not, and it’s perfectly fine to take a dip here, or rent a pedalo or paddleboard.
Further south, at Haikou Town on the east shoreline, you’ll find more beaches and swimming options. There are also scuba diving centers here.
Don’t expect to be met with teeming tropical wildlife and crystalline waters when you take a dive at Haikou. This is not Thailand. However, diving here does allow you to get closer to the ancient city that existed in this location, thousands of years ago, which has since been swallowed by the water.
Option 2: Shilin
Internationally famous, the Shilin Stone Forest is one of Kunming’s top tourist attractions. It’s a little further away, and covers a wide area, so you may want to book a Stone Forest tour with one of the local operators.
Once here, you’ll access the breathtaking karst rock formations – limestone teeth that protrude from the earth like petrified tree trunks, and give the region its name.
Shilin is also part of the ancestral homeland of the Yi Zu, or Yi people. An autonomous county within the province of Yunnan, Shilin is known for its traditional Yi dress, language, and cultural practices.
Don’t pass up the opportunity to enjoy Kunming
Yunnan is a special place. The lure of destinations like Tiger Leaping Gorge, Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, or Yubeng Village, is hard to resist, and it’s natural to want to charge straight out west and experience some of the wilder parts of the province.
But do yourself a favor – set aside a little time to explore Kunming, the province’s capital. Even if it’s just three days, you won’t regret it.
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