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When you think of the world’s greatest, or possibly worst would be more apt, dictators, names like Castro, Hitler and Stalin spring to mind. Enver Hoxha, on the other hand, probably does not. Yet, this little known figure ruled Albania with an iron fist for almost 44 years.
During his premiership, Hoxha imprisoned an estimated 200,000 Albanians in Gulag-style labor camps, 60,000 were never to be seen again. He started war with Yugoslavia, banned religion, formed an unlikely allegiance with China and built more than 750,000 concrete bunkers to be used as shelter should Albania be invaded.
40 years after Hoxha’s death, Albania is almost unrecognizable. And now is the perfect time to visit. Rejuvenated Tirana, its thriving arts scene in tow, is always buzzing. Outside the capital, rugged mountains give way to majestic lakes and the Albanian Riviera is the Adriatic at its best.
Better still, whilst tourist numbers increase year-on-year, Albania still has the feel of that final, undiscovered frontier. Albania is the Balkan’s hidden gem, and Albanian cuisine is the brightest gem of all. Before the cloak of communism rendered the country insular, it had been shaped by centuries of influence from its neighbors, most notably the Ottoman Empire. Nowhere is that more apparent than in Albanian desserts.
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Where to Visit in Albania
Tirana
Unless you’re coming overland from Greece, Kosovo, Montenegro or North Macedonia, or even across the Adriatic from Corfu, the chances are you’ll arrive at Tirana Airport (TIA). This is great, because Tirana is the best place to get a feel for Albania. And, of course, Tirana provides you with no end of opportunities for sampling the best Albanian desserts.
Start your time here with a short city tour to take in landmarks like Namazgah Mosque and Skanderbeg Square with a local guide. Head to the National History Museum to get your head around Albania’s complex history before coming face-to-face with it at Bunk Art 2, a repurposed Hoxha-era bunker now dedicated to telling the story of life under his brutal regime. Leave time for a trip on Albania’s only cable car, the Dajti Express.
Outside Tirana
When the time comes to escape the city in search of even more Albanian desserts, it’ll be hard to know which way to turn first. For the ultimate Albanian adventure, you’ll want to explore every corner of the country. To the north, beyond the ski slopes of the Alps, lies stunning Lake Ohrid. To the east, Lake Shkoder marks the border with Montenegro.
If you’re seeking some R&R, the beaches of the Riviera have your name on them. Durres and Vlore are ever popular amongst holidaymakers, but for a more authentic feel, you’ll want to head to Sarande in the far-south.
To throw a little history which far predates the brutal events of the 20th century into the mix, a visit to the ancient ruins of Apollonia is a must. Founded by the Greeks in 600 BC, Apollonia served as an important trading post during Greek and Roman rule. On the way there, stop off at 13th century Ardenica Monastery.
The Best Albanian Desserts
1. Sultjash
Whenever I’m in Türkiye, there’s one dessert I always seek out: sutlac. Turkish rice pudding is a national dish, and as much as the Ottoman Empire operated with some questionable morals (by today’s standards), one unrebukable positive of their reign was spreading the Turkish love of rice pudding.
One of the longest standing best Albanian desserts, sultjash stems from exactly that. Naturally, Albania have put their own spin on this classic over the years. Unlike the Turkish dish, it isn’t broiled so comes without the thick skin on top. It’s smooth, silky and made with unsparing quantities of milk.
2. Bakllava
Another of the Albanian desserts adopted from Türkiye, bakllava has gained cult status all the way from the Balkans to the Levant. A sticky, sickly concoction consisting of layers of flaky filo pastry, syrup and nuts, bakllava is a true guilty pleasure.
Aside from the addition of an extra ‘l‘, Albanian bakklava differs from the original thanks to the use of honey. Although some modern recipes use a sugar syrup, authentic bakllava gets its sweetness from the honey.
Travel Tip: Get your fix of Albanian desserts on a foodie walking tour of Tirana. You’ll get to sample sweet and savory delights as well as the chance to sip traditional local coffee.
3. Shendetlie
Moving on to the first truly Albanian of Albanian desserts, shendetlie is the original biscuit cake. A cookie-cake hybrid, it starts life as a honey and walnut biscuit. But once it’s removed from the oven, shendetlie is left to soak overnight in a sweet sugar syrup. By the time it’s served, and has soaked up the sticky syrup, it more resembles a cake.
This sugar overload may sound like it’s unhealthy, but if the name’s to be believed, that couldn’t be further from the truth. “Shendet” is the Albanian word for health, so logic dictates it must be a superfood. If ever you need an excuse to dig into a second helping, this seems a very good one.
4. Trilece
Whilst Albanian is a fairly unique language, like most European languages, it has its origins, in part, in Latin. With that in mind, you might have already guessed that “lece” has something to do with milk, and that “tri” means three.
One of the most popular Albanian desserts of all time, trilece or three-milk-cake, has its roots in Spanish tres-leches. The original recipe calls for the use of a mix of cow, goat and water buffalo milk. As you’d imagine, the latter isn’t all that easy to get your hands on, so many modern versions use whole milk, condensed milk and heavy cream.
The milky mixture is poured over a sponge cake once it has been baked. A sticky caramel topping is applied, giving you one of the most indulgent Albanian desserts going.
5. Tullumba
Albania’s answer to churros, tullumba might not be unique to the country, but they’re one of the most-loved Albanian desserts you’ll find. Originating in, no surprises here, the Ottoman Empire, tullumba are found right across the Balkans as well as in Egypt and Syria.
To make the perfect tullumba, water, sugar, salt and butter are melted together before being mixed with flour. Once the mixture is cooled, eggs are added until a thick, creamy batter is formed. Then, they’re piped through a pastry bag to give them their unique shape, fried and soaked in a sugary syrup.
6. Qumeshtor
Probably the simplest of all the Albanian desserts on our list, qumeshtor is that ever-present proof that simplicity doesn’t mean boring. This tasty baked custard is all about the milk.
A blend of eggs, flour, butter and sugar with plenty of milk, qumeshtor is baked until golden. It’s left to cool, then sliced like a cake to serve. What makes qumeshtor so special as Albanian desserts go, is that you won’t find it anywhere else. The recipe is 100% Albanian, having originally been consumed by Eastern Orthodox Christians in southern Albania to mark the start of Lent.
7. Revani
It’s true that revani isn’t strictly Albanian, but nonetheless, it’s one of the most enjoyed Albanian desserts. With its origins in Greece, this simple fruity semolina cake has long been a staple of family feasts. Given its place of origin, you’ll find revani to be more readily available in southern Albania, close to the Greek border.
Revani is based on a classic lemon-infused semolina sponge. What sets it apart from other sponges is the deliciously sickly orange syrup it’s soaked in after being baked. Coconut flakes, and occasionally pistachios, are sprinkled on top for an extra kick of sweetness.
8. Ballokume
The last of the best Albanian desserts might not look like anything special, but ballokume have quite the story to tell. Long after Paganism had died out in much of Europe, it was still going strong in Albanian, not least in the remote wilderness of the Alps. To this day, Albanian folklore, whilst celebrated in a more secular fashion, is strong to its Pagan roots.
On 14th March every year, Albania still celebrates Dita e Veres. Before the Gregorian calendar was adopted, this date marked the beginning of the new year and celebrations would be held to honor the sun, the earth and nature. Ballokume are the traditional food of Dita e Veres.
These days, you’ll find these delicious, simple biscuits available year-round all over Albania. For the most authentic experience, though, you’ll want to head for Elbasan, where they originated, during Dita e Veres.
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