The Crown of the Balkans: How to Make the Most of your Montenegro Itinerary

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Less than 20 years ago, Montenegro did not exist. When the USSR collapsed, Montenegro became part of what was the Federal Republic of Yugoslavia, comprising what we now know as Serbia and Montenegro. It was only in 2006 that a referendum paved they way for an independent Montenegro.

Not only one of the newest countries in the world, Montenegro is also one of the smallest. Despite its size, Montenegro is bursting at the seams with breath-taking scenery, a rich cultural tapestry and a little-known, yet divine local cuisine.

From the majestic Bay of Kotor to Budva’s beautiful beaches and parties, Montenegro’s Adriatic coast is a feast for the senses. Inland, the rugged Komovi Mountains and the towering peaks of Lovcen National Park are beyond dramatic. And when you’re craving culture, historic Kotor provides an overload and is an absolute must on your Montenegro itinerary.

Getting to Montenegro

A few years ago, getting to Montenegro was an adventure in itself. Few international flights served the country and packages holidays were unheard of. The journey to Montenegro more often than not entailed a flight to Dubrovnik and a long, but scenic, bus ride across the border.

Through Croatia

It’s still possible to reach Montenegro this way: buses run five times per day between Dubrovnik and Kotor, stopping in the border town of Herceg-Novi along the way. Schedules change at short notice, so ensure you double check close to departure. This happened to me on my first visit to Montenegro. If I hadn’t checked and traveled back to Dubrovnik a day earlier, I would have missed my flight.

Fly

Podgorica Airport

The good news is it’s now much easier to fly directly to Montenegro. Podgorica Airport, 11 km south of the capital, is the busiest. Ryanair flies year-round from London Stansted, and Wizz offers seasonal flights from Gatwick. A year-round service is also provided from a number of European airports, so it’s worth comparing options to see which best suits your plans and budget.

Podgorica isn’t usually top of the list on any Montenegro itinerary. At first glance, it’s a brutalist eyesore, but in reality, it’s well worth a visit, especially if you’re arriving here. The city’s architecture shows just how varied Montenegro’s past is. Podgorica has been part of the Ottoman Empire, Austro-Hungarian Empire and the USSR – and, like any good European city, has been razed to the ground twice.

Tivat Airport

Montenegro’s other airport is slightly more convenient for exploring the Bay of Kotor. Tivat Airport is right on the coast, but most airlines only fly here seasonally. Year-round routes exist to Istanbul and Belgrade, but during the summer there are dozens of services from across Europe.

From the UK, easyJet serves Tivat from Bristol, Manchester and London’s Gatwick and Luton whilst Jet2 operate from Birmingham, Manchester and Stansted.

Where to stay in Montenegro

As tourism has grown dramatically in recent years, wherever you go in Montenegro, there are plenty of places to stay and hotels to suit all budgets. Montenegro is a small country so choosing a good location to base yourself will really enhance your Montenegro itinerary.

What we mean is, you want to get it right; so we’ve written a separate guide of all of the best places to stay in Montenegro.

Getting around Montenegro

Driving

Given its small size, it’s quite easy to fit all of the country’s top sights into one Montenegro itinerary. Hiring a car is the best option for making the most of your time. Rental cars are available from Podgorica and Tivat, and there are agencies in most large towns.

To drive in Montenegro, most travelers (including Brits, Americans and Australians) will require a 1968 International Driving Permit. Make sure you get one before you leave your home country. The police carry out frequent speed checks and there are harsh penalties for breaking the speed limit even by a small amount.

Public transport

Public transport in Montenegro is excellent, so don’t worry if you don’t drive or don’t fancy renting a car. There is a limited, but reliable, rail network centred on Podgorica. Trains run to Niksic and Shkoder with international services extending to Belgrade, Serbia.

James Bond fans might remember the scene in Casino Royale where Bond rides on a Montenegrin train. Sadly, you won’t be able to recreate the scene as it was actually filmed in the Czech Republic!

For most of your Montenegro itinerary, buses will be the main mode of transport. There’s an excellent network, particularly around the Bay of Kotor and to Podgorica. Timetables are often not available online, so you’ll need to check with your accommodation or at the bus station.

Always carry cash when catching a bus as cards aren’t usually accepted.

Unmissable Spots on any Montenegro Itinerary

Kotor

If Montenegro is the crown of the Balkans, Kotor is the jewel in that crown. Situated on the 28 kilometer-long Bay of Kotor, the first mention of Kotor was during Roman rule in 168 BC, although its origins are thought to go back much further. Fortified in the Middle Ages, Kotor’s biggest draw is its walled old town.

The main draws of the old town (starigrad in Montenegrin) are its beautiful cobbled streets and passageways which are really easy to get lost in (I speak from experience). Top museums include the Maritime Museum and, because cats are an essential part of Montenegrin life, the Cats Museum.

The best way to explore the old town is to take a guided walking tour. You’ll learn a lot about the city’s long history and it’ll save you getting lost. Another great experience is to join a private food and wine tasting with a local family. As much as Kotor has some truly excellent restaurants, there’s nothing quite like sampling proper homemade food just as the locals eat it.

Perast & Our Lady of the Rocks

Just a 15-minute drive from Kotor, the charming town of Perast is unmissable on any Montenegro itinerary. Famous for its crystal clear waters, Perast is one of the most beautiful places in Montenegro, if not the world.

You can join a tour from Kotor to Perast, which includes a trip to Our Lady of the Rocks, or take the bus which runs every 30 minutes. If you choose the bus, you’ll need to arrange a boat trip to Our Lady of the Rocks locally. You’ll find plenty of boatmen willing to take you across at the waterside.

A highlight of any Montenegro itinerary and one of the Bay of Kotor’s most famous sights, Our Lady of the Rocks is home to a Catholic church and shrine. It is said to have been built by local seamen in the 15th century, and since then the islet grew as they added stones for luck before heading out on a voyage. Regardless of your religious views, a visit to the church is an amazing experience.

Lake Skadar

Marking the border between Montenegro and Albania, Lake Skadar is the largest lake in Southern Europe. Its surface is 530 square kilometers which means Lake Skadar really is massive. It’s possible to drive all the way around it, but doing so involves crossing into Albania, so make sure you take your passport (and check if you need a visa before traveling).

Some of the best views can be had from Virpazar. If you stop there, be sure to pause for lunch at Konoba Starcevo, one of the best restaurants in Kotor, just before the bridge leading towards Podgorica. The food is fantastic, especially if you’re a seafood lover, but the views are even better. On the other side of the bridge, stop off at the Church of Vranina, an ancient monastery right on the water’s edge.

For a different perspective of the lake, take a guided sightseeing cruise which leave from Virpazar. Better still, you’ll have the opportunity to try local wines from Winery Masanovic onboard.

Sveti Stefan

Six kilometers along the coast from Budva, Sveti Stefan is a gorgeous island connected to the mainland by a tombolo. This is the place to see the rich and famous – and not just the Montenegrin rich and famous, the world’s rich and famous. Sveti Stefan is basically the Capri of Montenegro.

Sveti Stefan’s stunning old town was built during Venetian rule in the 15th century but it sadly fell into disrepair following the breakup of Yugoslavia. In 2009, the Montenegrin government launched plans to give Sveti Stefan a new lease of life, and the result is rather unusual. They gave a contract to Aman Resorts, a luxury hotelier, to manage the entire island.

Aman Resorts opened a hotel, the Villa Milocer, and gave the island a new lease of life. It is now, once again, one of Montenegro’s top tourist destinations and an unmissable stop on your Montenegro itinerary. Whilst staying at the resort is a great, albeit rather pricey experience, the islet is open to anyone.

Lovcen National Park

Home to Montenegro’s highest peak and its old capital, Lovcen National Park is beyond beautiful. Lovcen Mountain stands at 1,749 m high and is the inspiration for the country’s name which translates as “black mountain.”

A must-see at Lovcen during your Montenegro itinerary is the Mausoleum of Peter Petrovic Njegos. It was constructed in 1971 and is the final resting place of Njegos, the former Prince-Bishop of Montenegro who was born in Njegusi, near Cetinje, the ancient capital of Montenegro which is located within the park.

To reach the top, take the cable car which provides panoramic views to as far away as Kotor and Podgorica. On a clear day, you can even see Croatia and Bosnia. For the best experience, discover Lovcen with a tour of the national park which includes the chance to sample a typical Montenegrin lunch.

Herceg-Novi

Sitting on the border between Montenegro and Croatia, in the shadow of the Orjen mountains, Herceg-Novi is one of the best examples of a typical Montenegrin old town. It boasts a rich history, with the town’s origins traceable to the Bronze Age before it was settled by Bosnians in the 14th century who fortified the town.

The old town’s main draws include five Serbian Orthodox Churches, narrow cobbled streets and a beautiful harbor. From here, you can take a boat trip to nearby beaches (payable locally). To learn more about the old town’s history, take a private walking tour with a local guide to see Forte Mare and Kanli Kula fortresses and Belavista Square.

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