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For the true heart of Japan, far from the international tourist crowds, look no further than Kyushu (more precisely: Kyūshū). The southernmost of Japan’s main islands boasts tranquil onsen towns, historic castles, irresistible street food, an awe-inspiring volcano and – saving the best until last – my favorite place in all of Japan. Don’t worry, all of these places will appear on this on this ultimate Kyushu itinerary.
It is understandable why first-time visitors to Japan tend to visit only the largest island of Honshu, as we’ve even advised ourselves on this essential itinerary. But, for those wanting to get deeper under the skin of this wonderful country, Kyushu is an excellent choice.
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When is the best time to visit Kyushu?
Kyushu’s southern location means that the winters are milder and summers are hotter than the rest of Japan.
Each time of year has its unique appeal, but I recommend planning your Kyushu trip in the fall. Late October is when the leaves are at their most vibrant, dressing up the destinations on this Kyushu itinerary in their most attractive colors.
How long do you need to visit Kyushu?
Kyushu is more compact than Honshu and Hokkaido (from the main four islands, only Shikoku is smaller). Having said that, you’d need a lot of time to see everything that Kyushu has to offer. While it’s possible to enjoy Kyushu in a week or less, I’d advise ten days to visit Kyushu. This is mainly so you can get to the final, indispensable destination on this itinerary.
Also, since Kyushu is mountainous like the rest of Japan, journeys can sometimes be a bit circuitous. For this Kyushu itinerary, I highly recommend hiring a car (even though getting by on public transport could be doable – this is Japan, after all).
The Ultimate 10-Day Kyushu Itinerary
Days 1-2: Fukuoka
Unless flying into regional airports, Fukuoka is the biggest city on Kyushu and your most likely point of arrival. You can get here on Japan’s famous Shinkansen high-speed railway (search for “Hakata” station), in around five hours from Tokyo.
Fukuoka is a charming city, and noticeably less affected by the tourism recently descending on many of Japan’s other cities. A great way to soak up the relaxed atmosphere of this southern city is to visit the Shofukuji Temple (Japan’s first Zen temple), Ohori Park, the Fukuoka Art Museum right next to it, and the Sumiyoshi Shrine.
Take two days to explore Fukuoka at your own pace, and soak in the appeal of off-the-beaten-track Japan.
What to eat in Fukuoka
However, you can’t mention Fukuoka without mentioning yatai. These open-air food stalls are emblematic of Fukuoka’s relaxed dining scene, and the vibe really gets going in the evening. Since I’ve had some very memorable nights getting to know locals at the yatai, you can take it from me that this is an opportunity not to be missed.
In terms of the food on offer, expect yakitori chicken skewers, local ramen and pork tonkotsu soup. Of course, this is all washed down with a glass or two of local beer or sake.
The most renowned spot for yatai culture is here, around the southern part of Nakasu island, opposite Canal City Hakata. Fukuoka’s yatai stalls will probably be the most memorable dining experience on this Kyushu itinerary. If you’re keen to dive deeper into Fukuoka’s food scene, I love this local foodie tour.
Day 3: Beppu
Ideally after hiring a car from Fukuoka, make your way to Japan’s “capital of hot springs” – Beppu. As you’ve probably read here, I’m a huge proponent of the whole Japanese onsen (hot spring experience). However, you might be surprised to learn that Beppu is mainly famous for the kind of hot spring that you are definitely not meant to take a soak in.
The Hells of Beppu are boiling hot pools of muddy, murky and milky waters, all much too hot for bathing. This series of sites attracts local crowds, and even though it is overall quite a commercialized experience, I personally still it is worth a stop on your Kyushu itinerary.
Although the Hells of Beppu are the most famous drawcard, there are plenty of more traditional bathhouses around Beppu town. Some of them even offer dining with baskets of food cooked directly in the hot springs.
As an alternative, consider staying in the quieter onsen resort town of Yufuin and approaching Beppu as a day-trip.
Day 4: Kurokawa Onsen
Because there’s no such thing as too much onsen, the next destination on your Kyushu itinerary should be Kurokawa Onsen. The Japanese characters 黒川 literally mean “black river”, referring to the stream that flows through the middle of this well-preserved village.
Kurokawa Onsen is as picturesque as they come. A small number of cozy, wooden-built ryokans, perched on the steep riverbanks, are overlooked by forest and accompanied by the uninterrupted sounds of nature.
I personally visited Kurokawa Onsen in the fall season. Owing to the fall colors, the town’s beauty is something that will stay in my memory forever.
Where to stay in Kurokawa Onsen
For direct views of the river, I would recommend staying at Yamanoyu. The spacious outdoor bathing pools at Yamabiko Ryokan are also a great choice. Both of these establishments also offer day access to the onsen bathing facilities.
Day 5: Mount Aso
Suitably relaxed after the last two days of bathing, Mount Aso is a place to get the adrenaline pumping again. Only a short drive away from Kurokawa Onsen, this could feasibly be done as a day trip, in case you wanted to stay at your Kurokawa ryokan.
Mount Aso is Japan’s largest active volcano and is an incredibly impressive sight in itself. The caldera itself measures about 25 km in diameter. Visitors can marvel at the steaming crater at the very top of the volcano. If you have your own car, you can drive to the top, otherwise a 45-minute shuttle bus runs from Aso station.
If you enjoy hiking, there are a number of routes leading you further up for even more spectacular vantage points. Be aware that this is, of course, a very active volcanic area, and closure of hiking routes or the whole volcano park may occur at short notice.
Day 6: Kumamoto
Coming down off the slopes of Mount Aso, Kumamoto is another pleasant and laidback Japanese city which deserves a day of your Kyushu itinerary. The rest of the journey can be completed easily with public transport, so you may want to consider dropping off your rental car in Kumamoto.
In Kumamoto, make sure to visit the Suizenji Jojuen garden. This classic example of Japanese landscaping is perfectly punctuated with shrines, rock arrangements and ponds, all intentionally making way for beautiful viewpoints.
Kumamoto’s star attraction is Kumamoto Castle. The Castle’s iconic tower rises high above the city and houses a museum taking you back to the times of daimyō and samurai. If you are lucky enough to be visiting in spring, the sakura (cherry blossoms) here are truly wonderful. Budget around two hours to enjoy the cultural displays in the museum and the surrounding garden precinct.
Day 7: Kagoshima
A short hop south on the Shinkansen from Kumamoto, Kagoshima is another truly iconic Japanese city.
Kagoshima is largely characterized by the looming and very active volcano – Sakurajima – just across the bay. Sakurajima regularly reminds the city’s residents of its presence by throwing ash clouds into the air. If you choose to take a ferry ride across the bay and join a tour to climb the volcano, be aware that you will most probably have to confront quite a lot of ash in the process.
The city of Kagoshima is otherwise a very chilled-out city, characterized by small local shrines and parks. Consider a climb up to Shiroyama Park for great views of the city beneath the Sakurajima volcano. There is also a nice aquarium in the city’s port area, which is where you’ll find yourself for the excursion to your Kyushu itinerary’s final destination. If you’re keen to learn more about the history of this particularly unique city in Kyushu, I love this half-day walking tour.
Days 8-10: Yakushima
Since it’s a bit out of the way, I was originally considering including Yakushima island as an optional add-on to this Kyushu itinerary. But ultimately, since this is my undisputed favorite place in all of Japan (a bold claim, I know), you absolutely must experience the sheer beauty of Yakushima when you visit Kyushu.
You can get here by boat from Kagoshima port, or there are even short flights from Kagoshima Airport.
(Credit: James Robinson)
Why do I recommend Yakushima?
Why do I love Yakushima so much that I call it my favorite destination in Japan? Maybe it is because it reminds me of my first solo trip to Japan way back in 2013 (although I have revisited twice since then). Most probably, what I like most about Yakushima is its untouched forests, the lushness of its climate, its endless opportunities for outdoor relaxation, and its truly unique hot springs.
This roughly conical island has steep slopes rising up to nearly 2,000 meters. Yakushima’s dense and, in places, ancient forest is so significant that UNESCO designated it a Heritage Site in 1993. The deep green hues of the forest, moss and ferns on Yakushima give the island an almost magical allure. Additionally, the untouched glistening rivers create the perfect atmosphere for connection with pure nature.
Activities on Yakushima
Hiking
If you’re into hiking, I would recommend a two- or three- day hike along the various trails crisscrossing Yakushima. You can sleep at some of the free mountain refuge huts along the way, which many local tourists also do. The local tourism bureau hosts a decent website detailing these routes. Alternatively you can even buy guidebooks in the town or online before your departure.
While on the hiking trails, look out for the elusive Yakushima shika deer.
For day-trippers into the forest, a popular site is the Jōmon-sugi cedar tree, purportedly over 2,100 years old. There are countless short trails that take you into forest as well, so you do not have to invest in a multi-day excursion to experience the beauty of Yakushima.
The best hot spring on Yakushima
Hot springs are a dime a dozen in Japan, but the outdoor Hirauchi Kaichu Onsen is truly unique.
At this seaside setting, a source of hot spring water emerges from the ground. Passing through a number of natural rockpools, it eventually enters the cooler waters of the sea. As the thermal water mixes with the sea, they both blend to achieve a perfect temperature which is ideal for bathing. Paired against the gentle lapping of the waves, it is an almost perfect rotemburo (outdoor hot spring) experience.
Travel tip: Be sure to time your visit when the tide is not too far out, so you get the refreshing effect of the cool seawater mixing with the hot onsen water.
Hirauchi Kaichu Onsen may be not only the best outdoor onsen on Yakushima, but also probably your whole Kyushu itinerary.
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