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Izmir should be on everyone’s Türkiye itinerary. The third largest city in the country and certainly the most liberal has so much going on that you’ll be surprised it hasn’t found its way onto your itinerary sooner. There’s incredible shopping and an amazing nightlife (and we all know that Türkiye does nightlife very well), but what else is there to see and do in the surrounding area?
The best day trip from Izmir is to the Ancient city of Ephesus. There are plenty of tours available online for this (and many of them are excellent), but it is actually very easy to do it on your own. You can make the day even more worthwhile by adding a few extra stops to the itinerary.
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How to get to the Ancient Wonder
The city that you will need to travel to from Izmir is Selçuk. Luckily, there is a very straightforward train, the Izban, which takes you directly to Ephesus. The central station in Izmir, Alsancak, is where you must buy an Izmir card. It’s necessary to have this card to travel on all city-run public transport in Izmir.
Travel tip: Be aware that it is one card per person, and you must top the card up with credit to use it.
From Alsancak station, take the train in the direction of Tepeköy (it goes via the airport for future reference). The train terminates at Tepeköy from where you will continue your journey to Selcuk on another train which will depart from the other platform at Tepeköy. It’s very simple as the station only has two platforms.
It takes just over one-and-a-half hours on the train to reach Selçuk. Once you’re there, exit the station and walk ten minutes to the bus terminal. From there, you can catch a small local bus called dolmuş (the bus is cash only) to the ancient city of Ephesus. It’s just that simple.
Aim to catch an early train to make the most of the day trip from Izmir. There is a train that departs Izmir just after 8 am that we would recommend, though make sure to check Google Maps before you set off as it provides accurate train times for the Alsancak to Selcuk route.
Travel tip: If you skipped breakfast, grab a coffee and pastry from BUEGROS Coffee Shop in Selçuk. Don’t skip that because options at Ephesus are limited.
First Stop: Ephesus
If you have even the faintest interest in history or architecture, then this one of the must-see sights of the world. Ephesus is mentioned in the New Testament of the bible multiple times but, whether you are Christian or not, the city was an incredibly important trade and political center in the region that will inspire you and probably make you feel slightly awe-struck.
Travel tip: Tickets can be purchased at the gate, but best to purchase them online to avoid queues which are common during the summer months.
Ephesus was once home to the now destroyed Temple of Artemis which was one of the seven ancient wonders of the world, the only site of which that is still standing being the Great Pyramid of Giza. Though only fragments of the last Temple of Artemis remain at the site, Ephesus is still a world-class site that is impressive enough to rival the current seven wonders of the world.
The main sights at Ephesus are the Library of Celsus, the Odeon and the Trajan Fountain, all of which can be seen within three hours. You might want to spend a bit more time at the Library of Celsus which once housed thousands of scrolls, attesting to Ephesus’s place as a center of intellectual activity in the ancient world.
Once you are finished with your visit, exit at the lower gate where you first entered as this is where the busses are to take you back to Selçuk.
Second Stop: Şirince
Once you arrive back to Selçuk bus terminal, look for the dolmuş labeled Selçuk – Şirince. If you can’t find it, ask a local to point you in the right direction. A short 20-minute bus journey is all it takes to get you to Şirince. Built during the Hellenistic period, Şirince is a picturesque mountain village that far too many visitors miss on their day trip from Izmir.
You can’t go wrong wandering the cobblestone streets between the old buildings and stopping at small cafes for a traditional tea or Turkish coffee. In particular, a stop at Şirince Köy Kahvesi for a traditional sand-baked Turkish coffee will not leave you unsatisfied.
There is also a covered market street where you will find many different handicrafts for sale. And after you’ve finished drinking tea and coffee and shopping at the small boutiques, head up the hill towards the forest for a wonderful view of the well-preserved old town.
You may have discovered in your readings about the best day trip from Izmir that Şirince was once famous for its fruit wines. Unfortunately, these days, due to restrictions, it is no longer made in the town. The wine available in Şirince is now cheaper, imported wine that has been flavored with sugary syrups. It’s something to avoid when visiting Şirince.
Lunch
Gözleme is a fitting lunch for such a traditional place, a traditional flatbread-style dish. It seems to always be made by one or two old ladies in front of a gözleme hot plate (maybe it’s part of the recipe). They will stuff the dough with various savory fillings and then cook them on a hot plate. The most traditional filling is spinach or spinach and cheese, but my personal favorite is spicy aubergine.
Most places in Şirince sell gözleme, otherwise famous as villager food. But there is one small restaurant, Şirincem Restaurant, which consistently delivers the tastiest gözleme in town. Actually, I’m willing to say the best gözleme in the whole region. They also have very cool décor and have a large menu of other foods, if you are after something more substantial.
Final Stop: Selçuk
Once you are satisfied from lunch, take the bus back down to Selçuk. If you still have time or aren’t too tired, then this town is also worth a look. In the center of town is the remains of the Byzantine Aqueduct. It’s likely that you already caught a glance of the aqueduct in the morning as they are right outside of the train station. It is not unusual to see families of stork birds perched atop of the columns.
Dinner
Old House Rest & Cafe is one of the best restaurants in town; it’s a great place with reasonable prices and also sells alcohol. They serve some Turkish classics like Adana kebab (spicy minced lamb and beef), tavuk şiş (chicken skewers) and vegetarian options like Patlıcan Dolması (aubergine stuffed with rice).
Travel tip: The last train back to Izmir is just after 9 pm. Again, change train at Tepeköy on the return journey.
There are also many hotels and guesthouses if you decide a day trip from Izmir isn’t enough and want to spend the night.
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