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South Africa’s Eastern Cape is an adventurer’s paradise with its long, lush coastline, ragged mountains, and many historic towns and cities. Although perhaps not as well known among international visitors as Cape Town or Johannesburg, the Eastern Cape holds many spectacular gems. One of them is Hogsback, a village nestled within the Amathole Mountains.
With its green, forested hills rising above the surrounding grasslands, Hogsback is a magical place (was this the inspiration for the magic of Hogwarts? No, but I like the connection). Driving into Hogsback feels like diving into another world – the road leads up into the mountains, and you’ll be immersed in a dense forest.
Hogsback has been inhabited at least from the mid-19th century. Over the last few decades, it has become popular among visitors because of its natural charm. Yet the village is also home to friendly locals who appreciate living in this unique location. Hogsback is perhaps best known for its mystical forests with gnarled trees, mossy rocks, bubbling streams and waterfalls that fuel one’s imagination.
Hogsback invites you to slow down and reconnect with yourself and with the surrounding nature. It’s for this reason that I am strongly in favor of carving out a few days for exploring all of the various nature experiences and local attractions here. We’ve put together this article to help make your stay in Hogsback a relaxed and inspired experience.
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When is the best time to visit Hogsback?
Due to its relatively high altitude, Hogsback is one of the few places in South Africa that gets some snow in the winter months. If it is snow or frosty mornings you’re after, the months from June until September are best for visiting Hogsback.
Otherwise, October-November and March-April are lovely months for visiting the area – not too cold and not too hot. Of course, this green jewel amidst the low-lying and more arid landscape is enchanting at any time of the year.
How to get to Hogsback and getting around while there
Hire a car
East London and Gqeberha (formerly known as Port Elizabeth) are the closest cities with an airport. As is usually the case in South Africa, hiring a car is the easiest way to get around. You could hire a car from Gqeberha or East London. From Gqeberha, you would then drive via Makhanda (formerly Grahamstown) and Dikeni (formerly Alice) to Hogsback. Or, from East London, you would drive to Hogsback via Qonce.
Hiring a car costs at minimum R200-300 (US$11-17) a day, depending on whether you hire a car in East London airport or in Gqeberha (Port Elizabeth) airport (often slightly more expensive) or from an off-airport location.
Travel by bus and local taxi
It is also possible to travel by bus, for example from East London to Qonce (formerly known as King William’s Town), halfway between East London and Hogsback, and then travel the rest of the way by local taxi. Although traveling this way takes more time and a bit of patience, you’ll almost certainly have a more interesting experience meeting people and seeing the way many locals travel.
Travel tip: The Eastern Cape is one of the few provinces in South Africa that has undergone a major change in terms of town names in the recent years.
Several places within South Africa were given names rooted in colonial or even apartheid influences. The recent name changes were implemented in an effort to better respect the long-term cultural and natural history of South Africa. The intention is beautiful, but it can be a bit confusing whilst the transition is in progress – many road signs or tourist guides still include the old names of places. It’s a work in progress.
Walking around
The village of Hogsback itself is relatively walkable, if you have a basic fitness level, and most of the hikes start from the village itself. Some accommodation options and attractions are a few kilometres from the town center like The Edge Mountain Retreat that is popular among visitors. Having a car will make getting around a lot easier.
Best places to stay in Hogsback
Many homes and accommodation venues in Hogsback have thatched-roof buildings, an architectural style that rose to prominence in Hogsback.
For example the thatched-roof Arminel Hotel is a beautiful place to stay, with a bit of luxury, garden and mountain views, a swimming pool, and easy access to nature. We can also recommend The Historic Hogsback Inn, a 4-star hotel with lovely accommodation and a wonderful pub/restaurant.
Another recommendation is The Edge Mountain Retreat, where there are cottages and bungalows for accommodation, a restaurant, and some beautiful attractions such as a labyrinth and, nearby, an Eco Shrine.
Or, if you wish to have a truly one-with-the-earth experience, stay at the off-grid Terra Khaya Eco Lodge. You can choose between private rooms or cabins, dorm rooms, or camping. This venue offers not only accommodation but also courses in natural building and permaculture, and they have for years organized horse rides and also courses in natural horsemanship. You’ll not regret stopping by, whether just for a chat and a visit or to stay a few nights.
Things to do in Hogsback
1. Nature experiences – what Hogsback is best known for
Hogsback is nestled within dense, green indigenous forests that form part of the Amathole mountain range. The most iconic feature of Hogsback is perhaps the “Three Hogs,” three mountain peaks that resemble the backs of wild pigs and that are visible from the edges of the village.
It is possible to hike on the Three Hogs, though this necessitates higher levels of fitness. Overall, there are over 20 hikes in the surroundings of Hogsback, and most of them do not charge entrance fees. The best place to enquire about the various hikes and the current conditions is the local tourism information center.
A nice three- or four-hour hike that requires a moderate fitness level is the Madonna and Child Falls hike. This walk winds you through the forest to a beautiful waterfall that is also a popular rock climbing spot. The hike loops further past gigantic yellowwood trees, mossy rocks, and forest streams. You can spot wildlife such as loeries, butterflies, or Samango monkeys, one of the three primate species in South Africa.
Another beautiful thing to do is to visit Hogsback’s historic arboretum. It is home to a 100-year old California redwood and other trees from around the world, as well as local flora. From the arboretum, you can do an easy 15-minute walk called the 39 Steps Fall that takes you to a waterfall.
Rumors have persisted that it was Hogsback’s forests that partly inspired J.R.R. Tolkien when he created his stories about Middle Earth. You’ll see this reflected all around Hogsback, where many names of venues and properties have been inspired by the Lord of the Rings trilogy. In reality, no direct links exist between the author and Hogsback, as Tolkien emigrated from South Africa at the tender age of three.
However, one of his sons did visit Hogsback and may have described its features to his father within their correspondence. In any case, it certainly is easy to get lost in reveries about places like Middle Earth when roaming around Hogsback’s lush forests and streams and viewing the mystical mountains nearby.
2. The Edge Mountain Retreat & its attractions
Around The Edge Mountain Retreat there are quite a number of things for a visitor to see and do. One of the best ways to spend your time is to take a meditative walk through a labyrinth at The Edge, overlooking the nearby mountains. You should also visit Voice of the Earth Eco-Shrine a few hundred metres away. This beautiful homage to nature was created by a local artist.
3. An authentic beer experience at Hogsback Brewing Company
If you enjoy a good beer, it’s worth visiting Hogsback Brewery Company, a local brewery founded in Hogsback in 2017. The place has a wonderful ethos of embracing ecological practices, using local ingredients, and of course, providing excellent locally brewed beer.
The place is related to Cloud 9 Brewery on the Garden Route, whose owner helped set up the venue in Hogsback. Craft breweries are becoming better appreciated all around South Africa, and Hogsback Brewing Company is a must visit while you’re in the area.
4. Enjoy delicious meals at the historic Hogsback Inn and other local restaurants
There are several restaurants and pubs in Hogsback where you can enjoy a typical South African lunch or dinner – burgers and chips, game meat, butternut soup, or just a coffee and a cake. Head over to RedClay Café or Happy Hogs Restaurant for such treats. Or, to taste some more unique South African foods, the restaurant at Turaco Hotel serves delicacies such as kudu meat and yellowtail soup.
One place we definitely recommend for you to include in your itinerary is the historic Hogsback Inn and its famous pub/restaurant. It’s not just their delicious South African food; it happens to be one of the oldest buildings in the village and has lots of historical stories and charm as well as a friendly, kind of European, vibe.
Finally, for the best sweet things, pop into The Chocolate Shoppe on the main road for some superb, locally crafted and beautifully made chocolates.
5. Local craft shops
Support local by buying unique gifts and souvenirs at Hogsback’s many craft shops. You’ll find these shops dotted around the village, but one of my favorites is Wolftree shop which sells a wide selection of gift items. There is another called Jikani, part of a community upliftment project, which sells locally produced handmade gifts and crafts. Crystal Corner is a magical place as well, with its stunning selection of shiny precious stones, crystals, jewelry and other gifts.
One thing visitors often notice as soon as they arrive in Hogsback is the craftspeople out on the main road, selling small wooden horses, hogs and other figurines. These have become a bit of a trademark of Hogsback. However, though lovely and in support of local craftspeople, these goods aren’t always manufactured in a way that would allow them to be taken out of South Africa.
Given this, some shop owners caution visitors against buying them. Make the decision for yourself; meet the locals, and take the time to appreciate what beautiful creations the local have made available for visitors.
A few extra special things about Hogsback
One special thing to note about Hogsback is that it is still a relatively dog-friendly town, even while many municipalities in South Africa are tightening rules regarding dogs in public places. So, be at peace here if you are traveling with your furry friend.
If you are an avid hiker, Amatola hiking trail is a rather demanding but absolutely stunning 9-day hike that starts close to Hogsback, with many challenging ascents and descents but also truly rewarding views of the Amathole mountain range and indigenous vegetation.
If you’ve explored Hogsback and enjoyed it, there are many more wonderful destinations in the area including Transkei, Mountain Zebra National Park, and Addo Elephant National Park in the Eastern Cape, or Klein Karoo in the Western Cape.
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