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Umbria is undoubtedly one of the more beautiful regions of Italy with its rolling hills and stunning vistas. We’ve been searching for the perfect place to spend weekend in Umbria, the criteria being good food, amazing weather, ease of access, and charming Italian town. There’s no doubt that neighboring Tuscany with its capital Florence steals the show for so many reasons. However, little Umbria packs a punch and is very much worth a weekend.
After visiting the towns and villages in Umbria, we think the perfect place to spend a weekend in Umbria is Assisi. Assisi is principally famous for being the birthplace of St Francis who founded the Franciscan religious order more than 800 years ago. It’ll come as no surprise, then, that the city is laden Christian motifs and places of worship, including the Basilica of Saint Francis, one of only three papal minor basilicas.
Getting to Assisi
By plane
One of the reasons Assisi is perfect for a weekend in Umbria is because of its nearby airport: San Francesco d’Assisi Airport (PEG) (or just Perugia Airport). For British travelers, there are direct flights from London to PEG which is only a 20-minute drive to Assisi. And if there aren’t any direct flights into PEG, Assisi is also only about a two-hour drive from Rome. This means Assisi is even suitable as a day trip from Rome.
Assisi is right in the middle of it all. It’s even a perfect day trip from Florence, with the drive being also about two hours from Florence. You’ll often be able to get cheap flights to Florence, but (if you’re okay driving an extra hour) Pisa Airport (PSA) is only three hours from Assisi. Pisa Airport is a Ryanair hub so you’re absolutely guaranteed incredibly cheap airfares.
Hire a car
The best way to get around the region is by hiring a car, though you absolutely can take local buses to get around. And once you’re in the old town of Assisi, you won’t need a car. In fact, you can’t easily drive around Assisi and the town is made for exploring by foot.
Where to stay in Assisi
We recommend staying in the historic center of Assisi. There are surprisingly quite a few options available in the town. I particularly like Mavitur Rooms, a mid-range accommodation which punches above its weight.
If you’re looking to splurge on accommodation in Assisi, all options pale in comparison to Nun Assisi Spa Museum which, contrary to its name, is actually a hotel. Virtually all of their rooms include spa access which is an essential way to end a hotel Italian day.
The ideal itinerary for Assisi
Morning
Do as the Umbrians do and start your day with scrambled eggs and truffle. This region is known for its abundance of truffle so you’ll find this tasty fungi used in so many dishes throughout restaurants in Assisi and Umbria more generally.
Basilica of St Francis
Following your breakfast, start your weekend in Umbria off with a bang with a visit to the arguably the star attraction of Assisi, the Basilica of St Francis, one of the most important sites of Christian pilgrimage in Italy. Both the upper and lower churches are filled with stunning frescoes conveying the message of the church, including the 28 frescoes depicting St Francis’s life in the upper church.
If you gave every fresco even just a few minutes of appreciation, you could be there for hours on end.
The first stone of this stunning Gothic church sitting on the hillside was laid almost 800 years ago, and the body of St Francis rests within it. You’ll find yourself spending a couple of hours in the morning exploring the upper and lower churches.
Cathedral of San Rufino
You’ll pass many a robe-clad monk on your way from the Basilica to the Cathedral of San Rufino, sometimes simply known as Assisi Cathedral. This is definitely a quick visit, but make sure to take a moment to appreciate the façade of the building, specifically the animal symbols and the beautiful colors of the stone when you approach.
Afternoon
Church of Santa Maria sopra Minerva
You won’t be able to miss the imposing structure of the Church of Santa Maria sopra Minerva located in the heart of Piazza del Comune. The church is an imposing structure that is like a lot of Italy, this church had a past life as a Roman temple. If you look hard enough, you’ll find many remnants of pre-Christian Assisi. After all, Assisi was only converted to Christianity in the early third century by its patron saint, Rufino.
In fact, remains of the Roman era are dotted throughout the city. The city walls along Mount Subasio (the slopes of which Assisi is built on) is Roman in origin. You’ll also find the piazza del Comune (once the forum), and, of course, the Church of Santa Maria sopra Minerva which was once the Roman Temple of Minerva.
Lunch
There are a number of fantastic places for lunch. If you’re looking for a sit-down lunch, we recommend Trattoria Da Erminio or La Laterna. Otherwise, one of the best ways to spend a weekend in Umbria is to simply gorge on the amazing local delicacies.
Torta al testo
A weekend in Umbria simply isn’t complete without trying local Umbrian food. You’ll want to make sure to try the torta al testo (also known as crescia), a thick, unleavened bread cooked on a round cast iron plate named a testo (hence the name). The bread is full of whatever your heart desires, but it is usual to get it with prosciutto or another cured meat, or spinach and cheese.
Rocciata d’Assisi
Where a city or region has a local dessert, you can safely bet that we’ll be suggesting that you carve out time in your day to try it. We’re glad to say that Assisi has its own dessert local to the area named rocciata d’Assisi. There are several variations of the dessert as you’d expect, but at a minimum it will feature dried apples, a hint of cinnamon and a thick pastry layer that is sort on the inside but hard on the outside.
The closest comparison is an apple strudel, but it’s a little bit more involved than that. Typically made with walnuts, it’s not uncommon to find rocciata d’Assisi made with whole almonds instead which add a great crunch. You can find rocciata d’Assisi in virtually any bakery in the town, including Paticceria Santa Chiara which has nailed the recipe.
Artisan Shopping
There are quite a few fantastic local crafts and artisans in Assisi. Make sure you carve out a couple of hours after lunch on one of your days in Assisi to explore the town. In particular, aside from truffle (which you’ll find everywhere), you’ll want to make sure you’re on the lookout for Norcia cured meat. These are cured meats from an area just north of Assisi.
And if you’d rather not return home with a lot of meat in your suitcase, don’t fret because there are plenty of things to buy in Assisi from religious items to homeware.
Evening
Sunset at Piazza Santa Chiara
Being perched on a mountain, there are excellent places to watch the sunset in Assisi. The sunsets here are special for lighting up the horizon in a deep red, so you want to pick a great vantage point and enjoy the natural show. One of the best places to watch the sunset in Assisi is at Piazza Santa Chiara which is also where the Basilica of Santa Chiara is located.
You can’t really get it wrong with sunset in Assisi. Because you’re perched on the side of a mountain (I’m sure you noticed it while walking from the Basilica to the Cathedral), you’re guaranteed an amazing view of the sunset no matter where in the town you are.
The Basilica of Santa Chiara is particularly imposing and is definitely worth a short visit. However, there’s no doubt the real star of the show is the play of the colors of the sunset setting over the valley with the Basilica in the background.
Dinner
By now you’ve accepted that your meals in Assisi will almost certainly feature truffle. If it’s going to be in every dish (or at least an option), why not go to a restaurant which does it better than everyone else? For Assisi locals, that Ristorante Il Vicoletto.
If you’re willing to head a little bit outside of the main town, we highly recommend Osteria del Mulino. This is a restaurant that locals will tell you delivers the best of Umbria’s unique cuisine. It’s worth making a booking in advance because the locals know best so the restaurant gets full.
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