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Known for its live music scene, dancing, sun, beach, and, of course, as the birthplace of world-renowned Morna singer and national treasure Cesária Evora, São Vicente, Cape Verde’s capital city Mindelo, is the perfect destination for a weekend getaway. There is a surprising amount to do in this little place, so we’ve made sure to include all of the best experiences.
As someone who spent over a month living in the relatively small, yet bustling and lively city of Mindelo, I feel qualified to provide the insighter scoop on what to see and where to go in Cape Verde’s cultural capital.
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Arriving in São Vicente
Many people choose to fly straight to São Vicente from Europe. Alternatively, you can take an inter-island ferry or flight. However – fair warning – inter-island flights and ferries are known to have schedules that spontaneously change. That unreliability is definitely cause to build in some leeway.
From the airport, you can take a taxi into Mindelo for 2,000 escudo (20 euros) or an Aluguer (collective tax) for 200 escudos (2 euros). Having said that, it is worth noting that Aluguers from the airport do not run on Sundays. Alternatively, if you arrive by ferry into the Mindelo harbor, it is easy to find a taxi to your accommodation from there.
When to visit
To experience the maximum festivities, I would suggest planning your visit to coincide with Mindelo Carnaval, a week-long celebration of Cape Verdean culture and music complete with parades, dancing performances, a contest for the King and Queen of Carnaval, and, of course, countless live musical performances from some of the most talented Cape Verdean artists.
If you are unable to visit during Carnaval, I would, at the very least, plan your visit for the weekend so you can take full advantage of Mindelo’s vibrant live music and dancing scene.
Where to stay
Simabo Backpacker’s Hostel is a friendly, clean, and cozy hostel, located just a five-minute walk from both Praia da Laginha and Amílcar Cabral Square, and 15 minutes from Praça Estrela. It’s our pick for the best hostel in São Vicente. The hostel has options for private or dorm-style rooms, a lovely terrace for socializing, and a kitchen to make your own meals if you are balling on a budget; plus, all proceeds from the hostel go directly towards supporting the associated Simabo Animal Shelter.
If you have extra time on your hands, I would highly recommend taking a visit to the shelter. The hostel staff organizes daily visits for hostel guests in the morning and evening. If you are an animal lover interested in a longer stay in Mindelo, I would also suggest Simabo’s volunteer program, which allows you to help out at the shelter in exchange for a reduced room rate.
Places to eat
Breakfast & Lunch: Eat with the locals in Praça Estrela
There are countless lovely restaurants in Mindelo where you can enjoy a mix of Cape Verdean and Western dishes. But I do want to say that you can enjoy fine dining anywhere. But while you’re in Mindelo, Cape Verde, why not experience the authentic Cape Verdean dining experience, and eat alongside local fishermen and dock workers at one of the stands at the heart of Praça Estrela? This is an experience that will stay with you forever.
Praça Estrela is home to the central market of Mindelo, a small yet bustling African-style market, complete with fruit, vegetables, street food, clothing, and souvenir sellers.
At the center, streetside vendors sell cheap, hearty, and delicious meals to local workers. For breakfast, you can enjoy a local coffee for 50 escudos along with a large portion of Katuxpa, Cape Verde’s national dish, for 250 escudos. If you aren’t a big breakfast person, or are just looking for a light snack, they also sell some sweet bread for under 100 escudos.
For lunch, 200 to 250 escudos will get you the Prato do Dia (Plate of the Day) which is usually some rendition of locally caught fish, beans, and rice. Not only is this by far the most cost-effective option, a locally frequented spot, and situated directly next to the main Aluguer station, but also your escudos go straight into the pocket of hardworking local businesswomen!
If you are worried about upsetting your stomach with street food, or you are more interested in a traditional western breakfast, you can always head to the Fr3skinhas Café (colorful cafe) situated in front of the Centro Nacional de Artesanto in Amílcar Cabral Square. They serve tasty western-style coffees alongside breakfast sandwiches for 400 escudos.
Lunch/Dinner: Churrasqueria Cantinho da Brasa
The very local, family-owned, hole in the wall Churrasqueria Cantinho da Brasa is absolutely the right place to try a wide range of Cape Verdean dishes. For lunch, I would again suggest Prato do Dia, which, depending on the meal, will run you anywhere from 350 to 500 escudos.
If the daily plate is not to your liking that day, they boast an extensive menu of Cape Verdean dishes to choose from. The plates are flavorful and reasonably priced, and still very authentic.
Dessert: Cremositos Gelateria
After dinner, I would suggest walking down to Cremositos Gelateria located in the Amílcar Cabral Square. For just 180 escudos, you can enjoy a scoop of ice cream, and, if you are lucky, some street music. I would highly suggest trying out the mango/maracuja (mango/passionfruit) flavor.
After enjoying your dinner and ice cream, it’s time for some drinks and dancing!
Where to go for drinks and dancing in São Vicente
For sunset over the Marina
I would be remiss if I didn’t mention the Marina Floating Bar as a sunset spot. The bar serves both Cape Verdean dishes falling in the mid-price range and is also the ideal spot to watch the sunset over the harbor while enjoying a beer or cocktail.
For live music
Although the food, at Colombinho Bar and Restaurant is nothing to call home about, the live music every Friday night is a sight to behold. Starting at Cape Verdean 9 pm (so 10 pm or 11 pm), you can enjoy a cold bear and a spectacular performance of local moana singers. It truly is the best spot to start your night out.
For a guaranteed good time
Featuring tasty drinks, and a cozy, speakeasy-esque atmosphere, the Jazzy Bird Bar is open every day except Sunday and serves up a mix of live jazz and traditional Cape Verdean music, any time after 6 pm.
For late-night dancing on Fridays and Saturdays)
During the day, Caravela Mindelo, which overlooks Praia de Lajinha, is a great spot for a bite to eat or a refreshing, yet strong caipirinha. But after 11 pm, on Fridays and Saturdays, the downstairs bunker opens for dancing and drinks.
For 500 escudos per person (€5) you can try your hand at Kizomba (a slow and sensual dance, originating from Angola, a second-cousin to Bachata) and Funaná (an upbeat, fast-paced dance, performed alone or in pairs, emphasizing the movement of the hips). The locals are friendly and will definitely take you under their wing, and teach you the steps.
Day trips outside of Mindelo
The island of São Vicente is relatively small, but the roads are good quality with little traffic. It’s for that reason that I would suggest without hesitation renting a motorbike for the day from Djambai Tours, located just up the road from the harbor. The price for a full day is €50 a day, or €25 for half a day. You can easily visit the entire island in half a day, but a full day would give you time to stop and enjoy the scenery at a leisurely pace.
It is important to mention that there are only fuel stations in Mindelo, so be cognizant of the amount of gas left in your tank so you don’t end up pushing your bike back! Alternatively, all of the destinations are easily accessible via Aluguer (local collective taxis) which leave from the Aluguer taxi stand at Praça Estrela – yet another reason to have your breakfast in Praça Estrela.
São Pedro: Swim with sea turtles on a secluded beach
After a short 30-minute Aluguer ride (200 escudo) from Praça Estrela, you will reach the small, sleepy, beachside town of São Pedro. A short, downhill walk will take you to the São Pedro beach, year-round home to sea turtles.
For around €30, you can hire a fishing boat to take you and your friends out to swim with the sea turtles. Alternatively, you can brave the strong waves and swim out to the fishing boats yourself. Once back on the beach, if you are hungry or thirsty I would suggest enjoying a refreshment at the Turtle Beach Bar.
Baia das Gatas: Spend a relaxing afternoon at a beautiful natural swimming pool
This beach and natural swimming pool surrounded by volcanic rock is a popular local destination for family barbecues and swimming. This is a lovely and beautiful place to relax spend afternoon swimming, chatting or dancing with locals, or enjoying a beer at a nearby restaurant.
Salamansa: Visit a typical fishing village
Salamanca is a small beachside fishing village. There isn’t much to see but it is a nice place to stop and observe local life.
Calhau: Natural pool
This is another fishing village, not too different from the other ones; however, the most noteworthy part of this destination is the natural swimming pool, made out of volcanic rock. If you stand in a specific spot, a large jet of water will shoot up like lava, making for a fantastic picture moment.
Monte Verde: Hike the highest peek in São Vicente
If you have a free morning, I would suggest taking a quick 15-minute taxi ride to the base of Monte Verde, the highest point in São Vicente. The ascent is only about one to two hours and boasts a lovely view of the surrounding countryside.
However, if hiking is your thing, I would suggest taking a ferry to the neighboring island of Santo Antão and spending a few days exploring this dreamy and mystical island. If you’re heading in that direction, we’ve got you sorted on the ultimate guide to for Santo Antão).
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