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Insider tips on how to make the most of your visit to the most beautiful island in the Cape Verdian archipelago.
Santo Antão, a paradise for hikers, campers, nature lovers, and avid adventurers, is the true hidden gem of the Cape Verdian islands. On the eastern side, windswept rocky cliffs surround verdant, jungle-like valleys, peppered with colorful hamlets, banana and sugar cane plantations, and papaya trees. In stark contrast, the terrain of the western side is more barren, filled with rolling hills and arid with Martian-like mountains.
But hearing about these wonders of Santo Antão is nothing compared to experiencing its otherworldly beauty and mystical energy first-hand. There are just some things you have to see for yourself.
That being said, Santo Antão is an up-and-coming tourist destination with a small and widely dispersed population, so navigating the island can be an expensive hassle if you don’t know what you are doing. We’ve put together this ultimate guide to Santo Antão to make sure you’re equipped with all of the helpful insights you need to navigate the island as well as my tips and tricks on how pull off a successful 3-day visit to Santo Antão.
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When to visit Santo Antão
Cape Verde generally follows the same seasons as the mainland with a rainy season lasting from July to September, followed by a dry season from October to June. There is also a period of increased winds from December to March.
Taking these facts into consideration, I believe the sweet spot is October-November, just after the rainy season so you can benefit from the full extent of the greenery, but before the windy season. Also, October is at the tail end of the sea turtle nesting season, so, if you spend a night on the beach in October, you have a good chance of witnessing a sea turtle emerging to lay its eggs.
Alternatively, if you are interested in experiencing a classic Cabo Verdean festival, I would suggest you plan your visit for the first few weeks in February so you can attend the Carnaval in Mindelo and Santo Antão. It is important to note that, whatever time of year you decide to go, you are never completely free of the chance of rain.
The center of the island, Paul Valley and Ribeira Grande, have their own micro-climates that change drastically by the hour.
How to get to Santo Antão
Santo Antão is only accessible via ferry from the neighboring island of São Vicente. Most international flights land in Sal, Paria, or São Vicente. From the former two islands, you can either take an inter-island flight or ferry to São Vicente.
I would tentatively recommend a flight as it is much quicker, more comfortable and, if booked far enough in advance, virtually the same price as the ferries. However, you should know that both the inter-island flights and especially the ferries are notoriously unreliable and frequently cancel or reschedule last minute; so, if you are taking an international flight, I suggest you leave yourself a day or two of wiggle room.
On the brighter side, the ferry which connects São Vicente to Santo Antão is the exception to this rule. It is both punctual and reliable, running two times twice a day via two services, CV Interhilhas and NOS for 1500 escudo (approximately 15 euros) one way. With CV Interhilas, you can book online; however, you shouldn’t have a problem buying a ticket with either company at the port. The ferries almost always have plenty of room unless it is a festival or holiday.
Getting around Santo Antão
When you disembark the ferry in Porto Novo, you will be presented with three main options as to how to get around the island during your stay:
Aluguers or ‘Taxi Colectivo’ (Collective Taxis)
Aluguers are the only form of public transportation in Santo Antão. You can find them at the stations in each town, and you simply wait for the car to fill up. Alternatively, you can hail a Aluguer like you would a taxi. If you’ve ever traveled in Central Asia, these will feel much like matrushka.
Pros: Most affordable option.
Cons: Only available at certain times, and if you miss those times (which are not written or posted anywhere) you will be sitting on the curb for a long time or paying 10x the price for a taxi.
Tips for taking Aluguers
- The Aluguers which run the South-Eastern coastline (Porto Novo – Paul – Ribeira Grande – Ponta do Sol) run with the ferry. That means, two hours before ferry departure, Aluguers run from Ponta do Sol to Porto Novo. Then, when the ferry arrives, they take people on the reverse route.
- When catching your ferry back to São Vicente, make sure you are waiting at the Aluguer stop or on the main coastal road two hours before your ferry departs!
- Aluguers stop running at latest 6 pm so if you want to take one you will need to head back to the area you are staying early. Otherwise, you will have to take a taxi or do as the locals do: sit on the side of the road and wait for a car or the miracle “late” night Aluguer to drive by—or walk.
These are the prices for aluguers as at the time of writing:
| Trip | Price in Escudo |
| Porto Novo – Paul | 350 – 400 |
| Porto Novo – Ribeira Grande | 500 |
| Paul – Ribeira Grande | 100 |
| Ribeira Grande – Ponta do Sol | 100 |
| Ribeira Grande – Cova | 300 |
| Paul Valley – Paul Coast | 100 |
Taxis
Pros: Reliable and fast.
Cons: 10x the price of an Aluguer.
Car Rentals
This is the ideal option if your priority is to see as much of the island as possible in the shortest amount of time. You can rent a car when you arrive in Porto Novo. In the port there are two kiosks, where you can easily approach and rent a car. All you need is a driver license from your home country and some cash.
In my experience, we were not asked to provide an International Driver License, but having one can’t hurt (especially if you have a driver license from a country outside of Europe, the U.S. or Australia). On the low-end, cars cost around €50-60 for 24 hours, on the high end €100.
Pros:
- Relatively affordable.
- Reliable and efficient.
- You can stop and take pictures wherever you want (and when you see the magic of this island with your own eyes, you’ll realize why this is such a benefit).
Cons:
- Can be stressful driving on cliffsides.
- On the top of the mountains, there can be a lot of mist which makes visibility poor.
- You are tethered to a car and there is a special magic about viewing this island by foot.
Where to stay in Santo Antão
Most tourists stay in Ponta do Sol, but unless you are planning to do the mammoth Ponta do Sol to Cuzinha hike, I would recommend to stay in either Paul Valley or Ribeira Grande. They are more centrally located and, in my opinion, simply more beautiful.
Travel Insighter top hotel pick: Casa Minga & Tatol (Ribeira Grande).
Pros:
- Beautifully location tucked away within the banana plantations.
- The staff are ready with a complete breakfast at the time of your choosing every day of your stay.
- Within walking distance of the Ribeira Grande Aluguer station.
Cons:
- Although there is a convenience store underneath, there are no restaurants in the direct vicinity so you will have to go into Ribeira Grande to eat.
Top 3 day trips + a bonus
Of course, there is always the option to book a guided tour if that is more your speed, but I believe there is something magical about discovering this island for yourself. To help you decide what to prioritize on your visit, we have compiled a list of the top three day trips plus a bonus day trip if I can convince you to stay another day and explore the Western side of the island.
Day 1: Fontanihas Village
Fontanihas, a tiny colorful hamlet tucked away in the mountains, just a stunning 30-minute walk from Ponta to Sol, deserves its reputation as one of the most beautiful towns in the world with the most breathtaking views. While I would recommend getting an early start and taking the morning ferry, even if you take the afternoon ferry, you can still catch the sunset over the mountains at Fontanihas.
Day 2: Xôxô Village & the elusive waterfall
On your second day, after enjoying a quick breakfast, I would start your trip to Xôxô. If you are staying at Casa Minga you can just head up the road for around an hour and a half; otherwise, you can make your way to Ribeira Grande and start walking from there.
When you reach Xôxô, you can ask the locals how to reach the cashuera (waterfall). Maybe you will have better luck than me, I tried twice and somehow, against all odds, never found it!
Regardless of whether or not you find it, the scenery is beautiful and climbing up the mountain gives you a beautiful view of the town. A third of the way back, I suggest you cool off at the natural swimming pool and have a bite to eat at the Melícia. Along with your meal of fish, chicken, or beef, and vegetables, fries, and rice, I recommend you try some fresh, cold, locally sourced sugar cane juice.
If you are interested in something stronger, I think this is the perfect time to try some of the local Cape Verdean alcohols: grogue (local rum made from sugar cane), ponche, and – my personal favorite – ponche de maracuja (passionfruit punch). Beware though, Cabo Verdian drinks are not for the week! Two to three ponches and you are definitely more than feeling it!
Day 3: Cova Crater to Paul Valley Hike
Pack your hiking snacks and sunscreen, I have saved the best for last! As you have probably already read countless times, Cova Crater to Paul Valley is by far and away the most impressive of Cape Verde’s countless world class hikes.
Over five to six hours of mostly downhill trekking, you will see the landscape change drastically from pine–filled forests, to rocky cliffsides, to pastures, and finally to banana and sugar cane plantations. You can even spot pine trees growing next to cactuses!
To get to the start of the hike, Cova Crater, you need to take an Aluguer or taxi from the Ribiera Grande Aluguer station, located in front of the Enacol gas stations. From my experience, Aluguers leave around 9 am to 10 am and 11 am to 12 pm every day.
However, remember, this is Africa, and concepts of time and scheduling are loose at best. As there are fewer Aluguers driving in that direction, I would suggest asking the drivers the evening before your trip just to make sure. Alternatively, you can always take a taxi, but it will cost you 10x the amount.
Once the Aluguer fills up, you will enjoy about an hour of ascent into the mountains to the trailhead, likely veering off along the way to drop off supplies to local townspeople. About four to five hours from the trailhead, you will find yourself entering the Paul Village where you can stop and enjoy a refreshment the Bob Marley bar or head down a bit further to O Curral, a local restaurant serving a mix of Cabo Verdian and Western dishes. This is one of the few places with a relatively complete vegetarian menu.
After your meal, you can choose to take an Aluguer to the coast or you can continue walking through the town. If you are staying in Paul for dinner, I would recommend Atelier Bar Restaurant. It is a little on the more expensive side by Cape Verdean standards, but it is still one of my favorite meals from my time in Cape Verde, and a perfect way to round out your trip.
Made with fresh, locally sourced ingredients, their dishes though generally simple in composition (fish, chicken, beef, and vegetables) are hearty and seasoned to perfection.
If you are looking for something unique to Cabo Verde, I would suggest you opt for katxupa, Capo Verde’s national dish. Either served wet or dry, this delicious and hearty mix of hominy corn, beans, cassava, vegetables, is a staple of any Cape Verdean diet. Usually this is served with a fried egg and some sausage.
Bonus: Tarrafal de Monte Trigo
Now that you have gotten a good overview of what the East of the island has to offer, I would suggest you spend a day or two exploring the West. In contrast to the jungle-like climate of the East, the west boasts lunar terrain interspersed with short stretched of green pastures, darting in and out of the mist, akin to the Scottish Highlands.
After an impressive drive through the mountains, you descend onto the Western shoreline, and soon the beautiful black beach of Tarrafal unfolds before you. Largely isolated, this tiny fishing village sees few visitors, and it’s a great place to relax and enjoy fresh fish at the beachside restaurants or hike to the “neighboring” town of Monte Trigo.
Getting to Tarrafal
While it is entirely possible to take an Aluguer to Tarrafal, I would not recommend it. From my reconnaissance while on the island, Aluguers only run once a day from Porto Novo to Tarrafal 6/7 am and makes a return trip at 8/9 am. This means, if you chose to take the Aluguer, you have no other option but to spend the night in Tarrafal.
What I recommend instead is that you could rent a car for 24 hours to see this side of the island. If you decide to take the car route, I suggest making a stop off at Campo Redondo Viewpoint to take in the breathtaking view of the mountains.
Accommodation
I would highly recommend camping on the beach in Tarrafal. It is not the most comfortable, but if you are lucky, you will get to see sea turtles come out to lay their eggs, and that is truly one of the best things you can do in Santo Antão.
If you are feeling nervous about camping on the beach, let me reassure you that Santo Antão one of the safest places in the world and there is even an association for the protection of turtles that patrol the beach each night.
Alternatively, if beach camping is not your thing, I would recommend Kaza Ladera. With a beautiful view overlooking the sea, kind and accommodating staff, and a lovely breakfast, the only drawback is its lack of official parking. However, you are likely to find some street parking close by.
For hikers, the Tarrafal to Monte Trigo hike, a long, yet rewarding hike along 10 km of stunning coastline (about five to seven hours), is definitely worth the trip. However, it is worth noting that there are few options for accommodation in Monte Trigo, especially if you don’t book in advance. In order to get back to Tarrafal after the hike, you’ll have to negotiate for a ride with the local fishermen. It’s kind of a fun experience on its own.
One last thing to note: If you get lost (as I did from time to time) locals are very kind and helpful, but if they say something is just around the corner just know that is at least 30 minutes to two hours of walking!
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