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Bohol Island in the Philippines is famous for three things: amazing diving, iconic Chocolate Hills, and the rare but beautiful tarsier. But there is a lot more to Bohol than this. Few tourists venture much further into the island than the Chocolate Hills, meaning they miss most of this amazing place.
I know this area incredibly well, so I’m going to cover the best spots that you can visit in just four days — from thrilling dive spots to serene river cruises. I’m pretty confident you won’t find a more interesting Bohol itinerary that covers everything you know you want to see and a lot more.
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Day 1: Arrival and Panglao Beach to Eat, Drink, and Be Merry
Visitors arrive in Bohol either via Tagbilaran Airport or a ferry from Cebu, Dumaguete, or Siargao. Whichever way you arrive, you should head to Panglao Island, which is a short drive from Tagbilaran City. This is where all the tourists go because of Alona Beach and its world-class diving spots.
Morning: Alona Beach
Start your day at Alona Beach, a small stretch of white sand lined with palm trees, lively cafes, restaurants, and dive shops. It is nice in the morning as the water is warm, the air is cooler, and there is no nighttime tourist traffic jam that has swamped the beach ever since the international airport opened a few years ago.
I love to head to the far end of the beach on the left side as you face the ocean. There is still a tiny bit of beach that is away from all the noise and people. Sadly, this is changing as a brand-new hotel is being built there as we speak, but for now, it remains the best place to relax and enjoy the stunning view. There is a cool restaurant up on the cliffs if you get hungry and want a superb view.
Afternoon: Hinagdanan Cave
In the afternoon, I recommend a trip to Hinagdanan Cave. This is a natural cavern with an underground lagoon where you can stay cool in the afternoon heat. The cave is not hard to get to, so it is doable for even persons with fairly limited mobility. The roof is covered in stalactites and stalagmites, while the freshwater is refreshingly cold.
Evening: Dinner by the Beach
A great way to finish your first day is to head back to Alona Beach and get dinner at one of Alona Beach’s charming beachfront restaurants. Most offer fresh seafood and Filipino specialties like grilled pusit (squid) and sinugba (grilled fish). I recommend getting here a little early, especially during the high season or holidays, as the best restaurants fill up very quickly.
Head home after your dinner to get an early night and prepare for a busy next day.
Day 2: Chocolate Hills and River Cruising
Morning: Chocolate Hills Adventure
No trip to Bohol is complete without visiting the iconic Chocolate Hills. You can either choose to rent a scooter or organize a ride to the hills. You will need to head off Panglao Island and down the coast to Carmen. They are not hard to find as you will run into them as you are driving up to the entrance.
There is a nice panoramic view from the Chocolate Hills Viewpoint. The hills are best seen in the dry season when they appear at their most ‘chocolate.’
The Chocolate Hills Adventure Park (CHAP) also boasts a bunch of activities like zip-lining and ATV (quad bike) rides that will definitely add plenty of fun to your trip.
Afternoon: Loboc River Cruise
On your way to and back from the Chocolate Hills, you will see the Loboc River. This is a personal favorite as it offers relaxing river cruises and a few restaurants where you can relax the day away, enjoying the sanctuary of the river. I have been there three times now and really enjoy it as a half-day getaway activity.
Evening: Firefly Watching
One natural phenomenon that many tourists overlook is firefly watching along the Abatan River. These creatures are amazing. If you are lucky, you will be a spectator to the magical glow of thousands of fireflies darting around right in front of your eyes. The best time of year is December to March, though I have been in October and seen some.
Day 3: Diving and Island Hopping
As I mentioned in the introduction, one of the main reasons for Bohol’s popularity is that it is a diver’s paradise. It has stunning coral and marine life. The last time I dived here, I saw three white-tipped sharks, two turtles, and a sea snake. There are loads of dive shops that are now typically offering three-package dives from around 4,500 PHP (US$78).
If you don’t want to dive, you can still arrange to go snorkeling with most of the dive shops at a lower price. I was the only fun diver on my boat, while there were four snorkelers that day.
Morning: Balicasag Island Dive
All the dive companies will likely head to Balicasag Island, a famous marine sanctuary that is regarded as one of the best diving spots in the Philippines. Divers can explore spots like the Cathedral, a dramatic underwater wall teeming with fish and coral (this is where I saw the white-tipped sharks). Snorkelers will love it here, as there is plenty of low-depth coral and marine life like clownfish, jackfish, and turtles too.
Afternoon: Virgin Island
Virgin Island is tiny. Indeed, it is really not much more than a sandbar, to be totally honest. If you like selfies, then you are going to love this island as the thin sandbar stretches out into the ocean and makes it seem like you are somehow magically floating above the water.
There is not much cover here, so be sure to bring lots of sunscreen; otherwise, you will end up looking like a lobster, like I did.
Evening: Local Dinner and Nightlife
If you have enough energy, then you can head to the other side of Panglao to one of the resorts to eat. If not, then head to Alona and relax somewhere chilled and enjoy the fire show that is put on by the locals.
Day 4: Tarsiers and Cultural Highlights
Morning: Tarsier Conservation Area
A trip to Bohol without seeing the tarsiers is like visiting Paris and not trying French food. You will need to head to the Tarsier Conservation Area in Corella. Tarsiers are the world’s smallest primates and are famous for their huge eyes. The sanctuary is government-approved and is supporting vital conservation efforts. Not only does this mean that you get to see these amazing creatures up close, but you are also helping to rescue them from extinction.
Midday: Baclayon Church
I was in Cebu when the 2013 earthquake hit Bohol. Unbelievably, no one knew that the island was atop a tectonic fault line. A local friend who lives in Loon told me that the beach simply disappeared under the water in a matter of seconds. The quake also destroyed or damaged some of the most amazing churches in the Philippines.
Fortunately, Baclayon Church, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the oldest in the country, survived. I strongly recommend a visit to this Spanish church that is simple but beautiful. It is a great photo spot with its huge bell tower.
Afternoon: Souvenir Shopping
Since you will be passing through Tagbilaran (a city that has some very interesting history and buildings, but few ever visit), you can go souvenir shopping at Island City Mall. The small town park near the city hall is also worth a gentle stroll if you have time.
You will be able to buy handcrafted items, woven products, and edible treats like peanut kisses and kalamay. I love Ube and highly recommend that you buy some kind of Ube treat and dried Cebu mangoes before you leave.
Evening: Alona Beach Sunset and Dinner
Head back to Alona and take a nice swim before dinner. I love to relax in the ocean and enjoy the sunset before heading to one of the restaurants with good live music. A truly great way to end your trip.
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