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Nearly 600 km north of Perth lies one of Western Australia’s best kept secrets, the unassuming resort town of Kalbarri – and its crown jewel, Kalbarri National Park. This might be one of the most underrated destinations in all of Australia and might be my favorite place on the planet.
Perched where the Murchison River meets the Indian Ocean, this cheerful coastal town is an ideal base beach bumming and exploring the wonders of Kalbarri National Park. Give yourself at least three days, but if you’re a bushwalking or an outdoor adventure enthusiast you’ll want at least five.
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Bushwalking with incredibly scenic views
Bushwalking is one of the best things to do in Kalbarri and there are plenty of options for all levels of ability.
Coastal hikes
Some of the easiest and most scenic walks takes in the coastal portion of the national park, just south of town. The stretch from Natural Bridge to Island Rock is an easy 1.8 km return on pavement or boardwalk. From June to November, you have a good chance of seeing humpback whales, and dolphins are visible year-round. This is a great walk for little ones and make sure to pack your binoculars!
For a longer, more rugged coastal walk, the 8 km one-way Bigurda Trail starts at Eagle Gorge and finishes at Natural Bridge. This is a fairly easy walk, but you need closed toe shoes with decent grip as you are up and down over cliffs. This is an incredibly rewarding hike; the views are endless – literally.
Interior hikes
About a 30-minute (38km) drive inland (sealed roads the whole way, which is always a nice addition) you’ll find the magnificent 400 million-year-old gorge that the Murchison River has cut through the interior. As impressive as anything in the American West, pack plenty of water, sunscreen and hit the trails.
If you’ve ever stumbled across a photo or reference to Kalbarri, it was probably ‘Nature’s Window’ – a wind-sculpted rock formation that perfectly frames the river gorge in the background. This is an essential port of call for any visitor and is easily accessible via a 500m path (one way).
This is also the trail head to the famous, tough but rewarding ‘Loop’ trail. In the summer you’ll need to start by 7 am – temperatures can soar to 50 degrees Celsius. The trail follows a perilous cliff edge – about a 150 meter drop – before descending and following the river in a loop before ascending back to Nature’s Window.
Parts of the hike follow sandy river banks with shady gums, and there’s lots of bird life and, likely, kangaroos resting in the shade. Other sections cling to the cliffs along the river, giving you an opportunity to examine the unique red and white strata in the cliffs. Set aside at least half a day for this hike – longer if you want to linger or stop for a swim.
The other iconic interior Kalbarri trail is the Z Bend hike. Much shorter than the Loop but more difficult, this hike includes a very sharp descent and ascent into and out of the gorge (there are ladders). The trail is only 2.6 km but you should allow at least a couple of hours.
If this sounds a bit daunting, you can just visit the Z Bend lookout which is a flat 500 m walk from the car park. Again, precautions should be taken regarding temperatures and swimming is possible at certain times of year.
If you’re into stunning vistas, but not long walks, make sure you check out the Kalbarri Skywalk. A jutting platform suspended 100 meters above the gorge, the views are breathtaking. There’s also a cafe on site – open seasonally – and toilets (those can be a godsend).
You may have gathered that it gets hot in the summer so it’s not the best time for bushwalking. July – October is wildflower season and it is magnificent, particularly in the interior of the national park. Up to 12,000 species of wildflower can be seen across this region, 60% of them native to the area.
Relax at Kalbarri’s untouched beaches
It shouldn’t be a surprise that with so much beautiful coastline, hitting the beach is one of the best things to do in Kalbarri. Surfing, snorkeling and fishing are all possible – and if you’ve never witnessed the sun setting over the Indian Ocean, it might be the highlight of your trip.
Chinaman’s Beach is the beach closest to town and a great, safe place to swim and fish. There is parking, toilets, and barbecues. Locals gather here in the evenings as it’s a great sunset spot. Two kilometers south of town you’ll find Blue Holes, a lovely sheltered beach. The worst kept secret in town is that this is the best local snorkel site. It’s a protected area and you can sight 70+ species of fish.
Keen surfers will know that Kalbarri is home to Jakes Point, a National Surfing Reserve. To my untrained eye, the waves here look pretty gnarly (do we still say that?). It’s great fun to head down in the evening and watch the locals, but beginners should stick to nearby Jakes Bay.
Getting to Kalbarri
I’m pretty confident that if Kalbarri were less geographically isolated, it would be a world famous destination. The fact that it takes a bit of effort to get here is part of what makes it so special.
The best way to get to Kalbarri is to rent a car and drive from Perth. That drive takes between six and seven hours. You can shoot straight up National Route 1, or I’d recommend taking the extra time to go via Indian Ocean Road (the clue is in the name) until it merges with Route 1. From June to November, you might see humpback whales breaching while you drive. There aren’t many drives better than that.
Indian Ocean Road takes you past Nambung National Park, home to the remarkable Pinnacles Desert. I highly recommend making a pit stop – and if you can time it, golden hour is by far the best time to visit.
If you don’t fancy an encounter with wildlife driving in the dark, spend the night in nearby Cervantes. Cervantes is famous for its local lobster. Have dinner at the Cervantes Country Club (the term “country club” is doing a lot of heavy lifting here); it’s simply where everyone goes. Enjoy a bit of banter with the locals and passing grey nomads over a great, casual meal.
If you’re short on time, fly into tiny Geraldton and it’s less than a 2 hour drive to Kalbarri. This is expensive and frankly, a waste of an excellent roadtrip. Fun fact – at 25,000 people Geraldton is the ‘big city’ in the region. Heading north, you won’t hit another population center over 10,000 people until Karratha – an 11 hour, 1,100 kilometer journey.
Eat, drink, sleep
Kalbarri is classic country Australia and the food here is hearty, unpretentious and calorie heavy. Vegans will struggle here. Finlay’s is local’s top pick, serving up hearty fresh seafood and burgers. As a bonus, they brew their own (very good) beer. The Gorges Cafe is the best breakfast in town. Get the rosti if you’re nursing a hangover or need a big meal for a day of bushwalking.
If you find Kalbarri has the faint whiff of a retirement community, you’re not wrong. A lot of grey nomads pass through, so there are ample camping and caravan sites. There’s also lots of self-catering options – all clean, convenient and unremarkable. The Edge Resort has a pool, which is great if you’re tired of scraping sand off the kids. If you’ve come to Kalbarri, you’ve come to be outdoors, you’ll do fine without the Ritz this trip.
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