A Local’s 3 Days in Athens Itinerary: What To Do

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Like anywhere we travel, there is always more than first meets the eye, and nowhere is this truer than in Athens.

The Greek capital attracts millions of international visitors for its incredible ancient sites and world-class museums. This is not without reason – they really are unforgettable. Not even the hardest-skinned cliché resister could visit Athens without climbing the slopes of the Acropolis.

However, it’s a real shame that many visitors only stay for a day or two before beelining to the Greek Islands (although Milos really is worth your time). Having lived in Athens for four years, I can safely assure you that the longer you stay in Athens, the deeper you fall for it.

And that is exactly what this article will try to persuade you to do: stay a few days longer in Athens, scratch beneath the surface, and discover its distinct neighborhoods, varied food and coffee scene, and vibrant modern Greek culture. Here is the ultimate 3 days in Athens itinerary.

Best area to stay in Athens

If it’s your first time to Athens, try to base yourself in the neighborhoods of Psyrri (for its central location) (the Apollo Palm is great) or Koukaki (my personal favorite). For repeat visitors, Pangrati or Mets are great options too, since they are both easily accessed but have a laidback local atmosphere.

Those wanting to splurge on posh accommodation can head to Kolonaki (we love the Divani Caravel), whereas Exarcheia is more for those seeking alternative culture and nightlife.

3 Days in Athens Itinerary

Day 1: East Side Athens

A local guide to the Greek breakfast experience

We’re going to start off in the upscale neighborhood of Kolonaki, where refined cafés and stylish boutiques nestle among shady tree-lined streets and cute local squares. It’s also the perfect place to experience the quintessential Greek breakfast experience.

Head straight to my personal highlight in Kolonaki, Café Cassata. This tiny home-style bakery serves up mouth-watering Greeks pies, with a nice variety of options. Those wanting a savory start to the day should choose the hortotiropita (greens and cheese pie) or a straightforward tiropita (cheese pie), whereas a galatopita (milk pudding pie) should be perfect for those with a sweet tooth.

Local tip: Athenians tend to keep breakfast fairly light – generally only a pastry and coffee.

If you like your morning caffeine fix strong, get yourself a Greek (‘Ellinikos’) coffee. Alternatively, my go-to on a hot day is always the freddo espresso, a blend of crushed ice and espresso coffee which creates a light foam on the top.

The freddo espresso (or “cafe freddo” as it is often referred to) is a distinctly Greek experience, and any coffee lover simply must have one while visiting Greece. You might find that it creeps onto your list of reasons to return to Greece.

Morning

Your next port of call is upwards, to the summit of Lycabettus Hill. You can climb all the way if you’re feeling energetic; otherwise you can always opt for the funicular which takes you to the top in ten minutes.

Lycabettus Hill is ideal for getting your bearings of the city and its sights. With magnificent views right across the city, you can get your bearings and see all the main historical monuments which make Athens so famous. Whenever I think of the Athens skyline, I always recall this beautiful view from Lycabettus.

Make your way down the hill, and drop into the Museum of Cycladic Art. This museum is slightly less visited than the Benaki Museum (just next door) or the National Archaeological Museum (I’ll take you there later), but I would highly recommend the Museum of Cycladic Art because of its more intimate feel, letting you feel closer to the priceless artefacts of Greek antiquity on display.

If you’re visiting during summer, you’ll want to make sure you reserve a ticket in advance.

Afternoon

Stay in Kolonaki for some lunch at Mpirmpilo. This restaurant has a menu which changes daily because fresh ingredients are critically important in Greek cuisine. The vegetarian-friendly eggplants imam is especially delicious.

After lunch, swing by the Hellenic Parliament for the National Guard ceremony (every hour), just across from one of the city’s busiest thoroughfares at Syntagma Square. Escape the traffic noise with a leisurely stroll through the National Gardens, before arriving at the Temple of Olympian Zeus.

You will have seen this imposing site from Lycabettus Hill, and it is well worth the entrance fee (and is included on the €30 combination ticket covering the main archaeological sites in Athens and any good Athens tour).

Local tip: If you are visiting Athens on a Sunday, don’t miss the more elaborate changing of the guard ceremony at 11 am on Sunday mornings.

While you’re in the area, cross over the road and visit the Jewish Museum of Greece, which showcases the Jewish experience in Greece throughout the centuries. This small museum is full of interesting exhibits, and it is well worth spending an hour reading the personal stories on display.

If you’re keen to learn more about the unique history of Greek Jewry, we recommend joining this half-day Jewish tour of Athens.

From there, it’s not far back through the park to the Panathenaic Stadium, the venue of the first modern Olympic Games in 1896 which still serves as the Olympic Torch’s departure point from Athens. In my opinion, you can get a decent impression of it from outside and it is not worth spending money to enter.

Evening

Make your way for the evening up to the charming neighborhood of Pangrati, known for its local vibe and wide selection of bars and restaurants. Be advised that Greeks eat late. It’s not uncommon to be the only customers if you eat out before 8 pm, so you’ll want to relax with a cool drink first.

Choose from ZIGGY Cocktail Bar or Sou Sou, both of which have outdoor seating where you can watch the world go by.

Language learners will love the selection of foreign language books at Lexikopoleio, in the area of Pangrati.

When it comes to dinner, there is a huge selection of restaurants in Pangrati, but my two personal recommendations are Vyrinis (a cozy family-run establishment just behind the Panathenaic Stadium) and Mouries (right in the middle of Varnava Square). Every one of the small plates served here is fantastic, and it’s the ideal place to round off the first day of your 3 days in Athens itinerary.

Day 2: Ancient Athens

On your second day you’ll dive straight into the touristic heart of Athens, with Psyrri being your first stop.

Morning

Grab a quick breakfast at Bougatsadiko Psirri by picking up a sweet cream-filled bougatsa. If you’ve never heard of the bougatsa before, you’re in for an absolute treat. This pastry can be sweet or savory, but the classic cream bougatsa, sprinkled with icing sugar and cinnamon, has been satisfying the Greeks and keeping cardiologists in business for generations.

Purists will tell you that Thessaloniki is the real home of the bougatsa. However, Athens is still an excellent place to try it. If you have a sweet tooth, you’ll want to make sure you follow our master guide to traditional Greek desserts.

You should get going early, in order to beat the crowds (and in the summer, the heat) up the Acropolis. This world-famous landmark needs absolutely no introduction, and it will certainly demand at least two or three hours of your time.

Take your time to soak in the incredible views from the top, before taking the southern exit down the slopes. This conveniently takes you to the entrance of the Acropolis Museum, in a striking modern building which somehow impossibly blends in seamlessly with the millennia-old artefacts it houses.

Afternoon

For lunch, take yourself down to the neighborhood of Koukaki, another charming area characterized by its shady tree-lined streets dotted with cafés and eateries. Svoura is my preferred place for lunch in Koukaki, and Peas Vegan & Raw Food serves up modern twists on classic Greek dishes which absolutely anyone can enjoy.

If you’re not worn out by the museums yet, the National Museum of Contemporary Art is just over the street and offers displays by both Greek and international artists. Don’t miss out on the amazing cityscape views from the rooftop terrace.

Work your way back towards the city center to take in the uber-photogenic streets of Plaka. This is Greece exactly as you imagined it: stone-cobbled streets, archaeological ruins and tavernas basking in the shade of bougainvillea trees, with the Acropolis in the background.

Yes, it’s touristic and the prices will be higher here than elsewhere in Athens. Nonetheless, you simply must spend some time wandering along its winding alleys and getting lost in its timeless charm.

Assuming that the sun is setting by this time, go up to the rooftop terrace at Ciel for a sundowner, taking in the warm sunset glow against the Acropolis majestically rising above the city. I can’t count how many times I’ve been here, and I never fail to be stunned by the romance of the view here. If there is no space at Ciel, Couleur Locale is another good rooftop bar for sunset views of the Acropolis.

Evening

For dinner, head back to Psyrri, where you started in the morning. Kalamakia O Elvis is nothing short of an Athenian institution, renowned for serving – you guessed it – kalamaki (souvlaki) skewers late into the night. For more of the classic picturesque Greek Island aesthetic you just saw in Plaka, go to Avli, where they serve up excellent renditions of the Greek food you know and love.

Alternatively, for a cozier mountain village vibe and more top-quality meat dishes, Karamanlidika is a fantastic choice. None of these restaurants are particularly expensive, but Avli and Karamanlidika are both popular so may require reservations.

You started your day with a sweet bougatsa, so it would be wrong not to end it with something sweet too. If you still have room, head over to the renowned Lukumades on Aiolou Street. Here, you’ll find the Greek take on the donut (and whatever you do, never turn down the opportunity for the pistachio topping).

A night on the town: Athens style

The final recommendations for even more consumption (of the liquid kind) would depend on how big you would like to go. For a chilled vibe, go to K.O.T.E.S. (Booze Cooperativa), a creative space by day and quirky bar by night, with a live DJ some nights and excellent cocktails every night.

For a bigger night, consider heading over the neighborhood of Gazi, where you can take your pick of any number of bars and clubs open until the small hours. And for an even bigger night, on the weekend you could even see some big-name Greek artists perform at the bouzoukia, with Votanikos being the perfect example of a big Greek night out. Just be warned that you may not emerge until well after sunrise…

Day 3: Hidden Athens

Morning

It’s nearly time to say goodbye to Athens, but (depending on how your night at the bouzoukia went) you still have the time and energy to explore a few more areas. In the morning, take in an archaeological site or two, the best of which I think are Hadrian’s Library in Monastiraki and Kerameikos about 15 minutes’ walk west of the center.

If you’re looking for another hidden spot to get amazing views of the Acropolis, spend some time in the morning at Pnyx Hill. This public space is virtually unknown to tourists, which is incredible given its proximity to the Acropolis. To get here, head from the Acropolis main entrance up Filopappou Hill, but continue a little further up the hill and head right.

You’ll be greeted by astounding views of the Acropolis through the boughs of olive trees, and best of all, probably without another tourist in sight.

To explore an interesting neighborhood outside the central core of Athens, consider heading up north to Psychiko. This area is filled with luxurious mansions of the Greek elite, foreign embassies and spacious green squares. This is another side to Athens, where you can take your time to soak it all in at a leisure pace.

Afternoon

For lunch, visit The Albion for some top-notch international fare, or Foititis for even more Greek favorites.

Heading back towards the north side of the city center, the National Archaeological Museum is unmissable. Even if you’re not a fan of ancient history or have had a few too many archaeological sites already, it’s worth setting aside a few hours to visit the museum.

Doing so will put into context the immense ancient heritage which you’ve seen all around you in Athens. Again, if you’re here during summer or the holiday season, I strongly recommend pre-buying your entry ticket.

To bring the day to a close, head to nearby Exarcheia. This enclave is the undisputed home of everything related to Greek counterculture. Closely associated to the nearby universities, Exarcheia is brimming with independent cafés and bars, specialist restaurants, alternative bookshops, community workspaces, arthouse cinemas… the list goes on and on.

The street art here takes on a distinctive political and often anarchic angle, and walking through the neighborhood gives you a sense of just how fundamental Ex Archeia has been in recent developments in Greek youth culture.

Evening

On a warm summer evening, there’s little that beats a beautiful Cretan meal at the courtyard restaurant Giantes followed by an open-air movie right next door at the Cinema Riviera. Another personal favorite for dinner in Exarcheia is Atitamos, where you categorically must try the deep-fried zucchini balls (‘kolokythokeftedes’).

Ex Archeia has absolutely no end of bars for you to spend the rest of the night. Have a drink and you’ll probably start planning your next trip back to Athens.

After your three days in Athens, you will no longer think of the Greek capital as simply one big archaeological site. Rather you’ll gain an appreciation for Athens as a multifaceted city with its own nuanced charm. Greece is a country like no other, and its beating heart of Athens will tempt you back time and time again.

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