A wandering spirit with a love for storytelling, Neera has 250+ articles in her travel playbook. She’s currently working on her latest insider guides from a secluded Mauritian beach.
Salt on the breeze, the incessant honks of cabs squeezing into impossibly narrow lanes, brass bells clanging from a roadside temple, and the sharp perfume of frying chilies wafting out of a snack stall…that’s your itinerary of Mumbai in a nutshell!
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Now, if you’re a first-time visitor to this delightfully chaotic city, chances are you’ll make a beeline for the popular Marine Drive or the quintessential Bollywood tour. But as someone who keeps on returning to Mumbai, I can assure you there’s way more to this exciting city than these mainstream activities.
For me, Mumbai always feels like the kind of city that feeds its visitors in layers: the deeper you venture, the more it offers. Think cafes that are actually older than the Republic, fishing villages that lie in the shadow of skyscrapers, jazz-age libraries that locals still go to, and thalis filled with classic specialties.
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But enough talking, and let’s take a look at how to spend 3 days in India’s City of Dreams.
Itinerary of Mumbai Day 1: Sea Breeze, Old Cafes, and Culture
I always like starting a trip to Mumbai with salt in the air, which means a dawn walk at Sassoon Docks. It isn’t pretty, well, at least not in the Instagrammable sense! It’s noisy, fishy, chaotic. In fact, travelers are usually put off by the pungent fishy scent that permeates the place, especially in the early morning. But once you get past the smell, believe me when I say a stroll down the docks is one of the best ways of experiencing Mumbai before the crowd settles in.
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Over there, you’ll also find warehouse walls covered in bold, brightly colored murals from the local St+art Project.
Breakfast At An Iranian Cafe
From the docks, you can hop on a rickshaw toKyani & Co, an Irani café (near Marine Lines) that locals often flock to for breakfast. Open as from 7 am, this is my usual haunt for classic Mumbai specialties like brun maska(super firm, crusty bread) dunked in sweet Irani chai, akuri scrambled eggs (spiced eggs), and mawa cake (cake made from milk solids). Their menu is unfussy but undeniably comforting. It’s always packed though, so you do need to brace yourself for the lines.
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If you’d rather avoid the crowd, you can always grab breakfast from the nearby Sassanian Boulangrie. I can never get enough of their chicken puffs!
Even if you’re not a gallery hopper, step into Kitab Khana, a nearby independent bookstore tucked into a restored heritage building. It smells like paper and coffee, and their Indian literature section is seriously impressive.
Speaking of books, I also recommend a visit to the David Sassoon Library which offers quite a sight with its imposing architecture, carved wood staircases, stained glass, and chintz armchairs.
Classic North Indian Lunch
If all the walking around makes you hungry, I can totally vouch for theDelhi Highway (yes, in Mumbai!) specializing in North Indian cuisine. The food is affordable, scrumptious, and filling enough to keep you going until dinnertime.
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The menu is quite extensive, but I always order the Maharaja Thali which comes with an assortment of starters, including a veg platter, pani puri, and various chaats. For mains, the thali features typical Mumbai eats like chickpea curry, paneer, dal makhani, mixed vegetables, garlic butter roti, and masala rice. The maharaja thali even comes with a moreish moong dal halwa, which is a sort of sweet fudge made from pulses.
Parks, Temples, and Dinner At A Beloved Institution
If you’d like to explore somewhere glitzy after lunch, head over to the Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Vastu Sangrahalaya museum, known for its Indo-Saracenic arches and domes. Personally though, I’m happier strolling in the shade at the Horniman Circle Park. Keep your eyes peeled for the famous Asiatic Society’s stone steps.
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A half hour’s drive from the park takes you to the Babulnath Temple, dedicated to the Hindu deity, Shiva. One of the oldest temples in Mumbai, Babulnath is said to date back to 1780. Because it’s found on a small hill, this is an incredible place to take in the views.
For dinner, head over to Ling’s Pavilion near Regal Cinema. Locals will tell you their pepper crab is practically a rite of passage, but I personally have a soft spot for their pork spareribs and bok choy.
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Itinerary of Mumbai Day 2: Markets, Matunga Soul Food, and Bandra’s Creative Pulse
Begin your day with some early morning chaos by making a quick detour to the Flower Market Dadarbefore breakfast. This flower market is quite a sight to behold, with marigold garlands, roses, tulsi (holy basil) and white jasmine overflowing from rattan baskets. You may notice locals placing marigolds and tulsi on their thalis (metal plates).
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Most locals also buy coconuts and bananas from the adjacent fruit market. They then arrange everything on the thali and carry everything over to the nearest temple for the morning aarti (religious ritual).
Local Tip: At Dadar Phool Galli, there’s a pedestrian bridge that connects Dadar West to Dadar East over the railway tracks. If you climb up, you’ll see the entire street covered in flowers. It almost looks like a vivid orange-and-white river moving through the chaos. Try to get there early, before the flowers are sold out.
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Breakfast in Matunga
From Dadar Phool Galli, it’s a short hop to Matunga, a neighborhood that may make you feel like you’re in Tamil Nadu. You’ll find two of my favorite breakfast jaunts over there: Café Madras and Ram Ashraya.
Café Madras is especially known for podi idli(steamed rice cakes) which goes brilliantly with their filter coffee. If you’re an early riser, you’ll be glad to know the café opens as early as 7 am. If you can handle the heat, I suggest you ask for extra ‘gunpowder’ on the side. This fiery and flavorful spice powder perfectly complements those fluffy rice cakes.
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At Ram Ashraya, I always go for their pineapple sheera, which is a sort of fudge made from fresh pineapple chunks, semolina, sugar, cashews, raisins, and oodles of that delicious Indian ghee (clarified butter). If you want something hot-sour-salty to properly wake you up, I also vouch for the rasam vada(lentil fritters soaked in a tangy soup).
Train to Mahalaxmi & Haji Ali
After breakfast, hop on a train from Matunga to Mahalaxmi Station. I suggest you grab a seat on the left side of the train so you can see Dhobi Ghat(the world’s largest open-air laundry), as the train pulls in.
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You’ll see hundreds of dhobis (clothes washers) hand washing uniforms, hotel sheets, and saris by hand. It’s industrial and old-school, but the colorful patchwork of clothes carefully spread over rocks to dry is pure vintage Mumbai.
From Mahalaxmi Station, it’s just a quick journey to the Haji Ali Dargah, a white-domed mosque that sits adrift in the Arabian Sea. I recommend you visit during low tide so you can walk across the narrow causeway.
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On Fridays, traditional qawwali singers sing devotional music in the courtyard. You’ll also see vendors selling fresh juice and local delicacies outside the gate. Be sure to try the sitaphal (custard apple) cream at the Haji Ali Juice Centre.
Afternoon In Bandra
Instead of following the crowds on Hill Road, tryBazaar Road. It’s a narrow lane where families still sell homemade pickles, dried fish, and the famous Bandra “bottle masala” right from their front steps. You’ll also see old but artistic tiled signs with family names above the doors.
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Just a few minutes away isChimbai Village, one of the last Koli fishing hamlets in this part of Mumbai. For me, this is what Mumbai is all about. You’ll see nets drying outside, small boats being repaired, and kids playing cricket in the lanes.
Dinner And Juhu Beach
If you’re already in Bandra, you don’t need to head across town for a good meal. One of my go-to spots is Candies on Pali Hill. Tourists sometimes miss it because it’s actually found in an old bungalow. I know it’s not typically Indian but for me, nothing quite hits the spot like their chicken lasagna and Goan beef croquettes. Surprisingly enough, their prices are pretty reasonable for a touristy area like Bandra.
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For something even more under-the-radar, walk over to Joseph’s Cold Storage near Hill Road. This no-frills spot is actually a butcher shop, but by evening they grill up their fresh sausages outside. Grab a roll packed with spicy sausage and onions. It’s a Bandra late-night ritual!
Mumbai can be a bit overwhelming for first time visitors, so you may wish to consider signing up for a street food and night market tourto discover the city after dark.
One of my favorite after-dark destinations in Mumbai is no doubtJuhu Beach. You’ll find several vendors setting up their stalls for the evening and pretty soon, the salty sea breeze is tinged with all sorts of enticing aromas. Grab some perfectly charred, butter-drenched corn on the cob, or some pav bhaji (soft bread rolls with a thick vegetable paste), plop down on the sand and listen to the sound of the waves. That’s my idea of a perfect evening in Mumbai!
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Itinerary of Mumbai Day 3: Islands, Icons, and a Bollywood Goodbye
If there’s one thing in Mumbai worth setting my alarm for, it’s this one. Even though it’s a clichéd tourist attraction, I like to head down to the Gateway of India early morning before the crowds show up. In fact, I always try to make it right before sunrise, so I can watch the basalt arch turn honey gold.
This is also where ferries leave for the Elephanta Caves, a UNESCO site carved smack dab into basalt rock on a tiny island in the harbor.
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Local Tip: On the island, you’ll find tourists flocking to a mini train that shuttles you from the jetty to the base of the cave stairs. For the best views, I suggest you skip the train and walk 10 minutes to the caves. Wear comfortable shoes since you’ll need to climb around lots of steps. I also suggest you bring cash since the Archaeological Survey ticket window doesn’t always take cards.
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Lunch: Bombay Duck Galore
You just can’t leave Mumbai without at least trying their Bombay Duck. After all, this is probably the most iconic dish in the city!
Contrary to popular belief though, Bombay duck isn’t actually duck. It’s a fish that’s found along the Gujrat and Maharashtra coast. Now, it does have a super pungent smell when it’s being cooked, but if you can get past it, I promise you’ll love the delicate, almost buttery-soft texture. Bombay duck (locally known as bombil) is rooted in the local culture.
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Not only is it a Koli community specialty, but its cheap price tag means that generations of Mumbai families enjoyed it as both a comfort food and an inexpensive dish during tough times. Because it’s usually dried, bombil is also popular during the monsoon season.
If you ask me, one of the best spots for Bombay duck is Pradeep Gomantaknear the Fort Area. This old-school joint is tiny, always very busy, but they’ve got some of the best food I’ve had in Mumbai. I’ll never stop raving about their bombil fry thali, served with rice, curry, pickle, and solkadhi, a pinkish-purple drink made from coconut milk and dried kokum.
If you want a breather from the crowds,Worli Fortis one of the city’s overlooked gems. It’s small, scruffy, and hemmed in by fishing villages. The view is pretty amazing: you’ll see both the fishing village and Mumbai’s iconic glass towers in the same frame.
Alternatively, you may also wish to check out Sewri Fortoverlooking the mudflats. Built by the British East India Company in 1680, this historical place has a quiet charm with basalt walls and banyan roots. Between November and May, you’ll see thousands of pink flamingos across the water.
Not only is this jewel-box museum older and quieter, but the 19th-century building is pretty impressive too. It’s got towering columns, mint-green walls, clay dioramas of colonial Bombay, and old maps. There’s even a garden café where you can fuel up over a clay cup of chai and a samosa.
(Credit: Nadeem Aflah)
Thieves Bazaar
If you’ve got some time to spare before dinner, head over to Chor Bazaar, one of the largest flea markets in India. The name literally translates to ‘thieves market’. Locals will tell you that you ever get pickpocketed or lose anything in Mumbai, you should head right to Chor Bazaar to buy it back – although rest assured that it’s more of an urban legend than anything else!
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Dating back to when India was under British colonial rule, Chor Bazaar used to sell secondhand goods. It still does, but it’s also famous for vintage, handcrafted, and antique objects. The market extends across super narrow lanes where you can buy just about everything from car spare parts, brass objects, original Victorian furniture, and old Bollywood posters. Bear in mind that bargaining isn’t just expected at Chor Bazaar (and other markets in India): it’s also part of the culture.
Dinner and Dancing
For dinner,Shree Thaker Bhojanalay is my go-to spot for a classic Gujurati thali. It does tend to be crowded at mealtimes though. The service is a blur of hands refilling your plate, and their shrikhand (sweet yogurt dessert) is something I always save space for.
Not unlike Delhi,Mumbai’s got quite an exciting nightlife – perfect for ending your trip on a fun note! If you’re looking for a classic Bollywood-themed evening, head over to the Rude Lounge(their beer tower is pretty impressive!) or Lord of the Drinks, known for its medieval theme and eccentric cocktails.
After exploring Mumbai, how about hopping over to Goa or Bangalore next? Of course, it wouldn’t quite be a trip to India without munching your way through its amazing eats. Luckily, Delhi’s got plenty of scrumptious street food for you to choose from!
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